TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
(Rz) compared to the placebo treatment by around 10%. The results achieved by the biomimetic
hydroxyapatite in the previously mentioned tests confirm its suitability for inclusion in multi- functional sunscreens as well as in products for skin protection and anti-ageing claiming SPF, in line with the trends highlighted earlier in this article.
Conclusion Sunscreens market has experienced a consistent increase of interest toward the use of mineral filters and boosters as well as ingredients with multifunctional features, high naturalness, sustainably sourced and with low environmental impact. Apalight biomimetic HAP is a specialty
ingredient based on a mineral comparable to that occurring in the human body and in the sea ecosystem. This specific type of mineral is traditionally used in medical applications (as coating to promote bone ingrowth into prosthetic implants, and as a rejuvenating solution in aesthetic medicine etc.). It represents an interesting innovation for sun care, as it enables the formulation of fully natural mineral sunscreens with optimized sensorial features and hybrid sunscreens in combination with organic filters to achieve high SPF protection values. HAP mineral does not give any applicative
whitening effect and shows a light texture that drastically differentiates it from micron sized inorganic filters, enabling to either reduce their amount in mineral sunscreens or totally replace them in hybrid sunscreens. Furthermore, its biomimetic nature, its peculiar external surface and pH dependent oligoelements release triggered by skin acidic values promote multiple benefits, including elasticity enhance, maintenance of skin barrier integrity and anti-wrinkle features. In the wake of the studies previously shown,
biomimetic HAP represents therefore a promising candidate for the development of heterogeneous multifunctional sun care products in the name of environmental sustainability.
PC
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SKIN ELASTICITY (R2) (CUTOMETER SEM 575, COURAGE & KHAZAKA)
T0 ■ T4 weeks ■
0.64 0.62 0.6
0.58 0.56 0.54 0.52
Apalight cream Placewbo
0.25 0.2
0.15 0.1
0.05 0
Apalight cream Placewbo
Figure 4: Hydroxyapatite four-week treatment results: +10.3% elasticity, -17.1% viscoelasticity (increased firmness)
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DEEP WRINKLE (RZ) SKIN SURFACE REPLICA AND SURFACE ANALYSIS (MONADERM, MONACO)
T0 ■ T4 weeks ■
60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50
Apalight cream Placewbo
Figure 5: Hydroxyapatite four-week treatment results: -10% deep wrinkles
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VISCO-ELASTICITY (R6) (CUTOMETER SEM 575, COURAGE & KHAZAKA)
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