20 NYSCC SUPPLIERS’ DAY 2022


hair consumer needs for conditioning, repair and styling, as well as new claims including detangling, strengthening and frizz management. Also on display was Z-COTE Sheer, the


newest addition to the Z-COTE portfolio of its zinc oxide UV filters. Z-COTE Sheer is said to be a high-performing, naturally derived dispersion that provides ease of formulating and meets consumer standards for sensory perception. Its best-in-class transparency is demonstrated with sensory panel data on Fitzpatrick skin types I-V. BASF also introduced its 87% natural


Saxifraga Sarmentosa extract that helps return skin to the look of its original natural colour and overall homogenous tone. Backed by clinical studies, it is said to deliver impressive results on the appearance of age-related and acne-related hyperpigmentation in melanated skin. Meanwhile, BASF also offered ComfortBD,


an extensively researched, tested and effective CBD solution that helps mattify and soothe the appearance of red, irritated skin.


Clariant Natural Ingredients launched an eyecare active made with enriched extract of inflammation-fighting compounds obtained from sustainably-grown sweet potato roots. Rootness Awake is said to counter the


fragility of the eye contour by focusing on key aspects: decreasing the release of inflammatory mediators, helping reduce the microvascular network, and ensuring skin thickness, integrity and firmness are strengthened. All of these combine to reduce under-eye


pigmentation and edema (fluid build-up). It achieves this as a result of the high concentration of active compounds Dicaffeoylquinate esters (DCQE). The extract’s activity is demonstrated in in vitro, ex vivo and also clinical evaluations. In tests over 28 days on women aged 18-35


years showing constant signs of fatigue, Rootness Awake is shown to improve and smooth out dark circles, reduce puffiness, and strengthen eye contour stiffness. The overall result is a lightened, more “awake” eye contour, the company says. The sweet potato root extract is sourced via


soilless aeroponic cultivation, which is non- destructive to plants and which has multiple benefits compared to conventional methods in relation to land use, water use, and maximizing harvests.


CLR presented CutiGuard CLR, a refined approach to the first signs of skin aging. When it comes to the aging of skin, three factors are crucial – time, external and internal stress. CutiGuard CLR is based on an extremophilic red alga, Galdieria sulphuraria, which occurs in hot sulphur springs in extremely hostile environments. In order to survive, it uses horizontal gene transfer and thus adapts optimally to the prevailing conditions. The algae used for CutiGuard CLR are


grown locally and sustainably in Germany. In a sustainable fermentation process, CLR transfers the adaptivity and resilience of Galdieria sulphuraria to a highly effective active ingredient that protects the skin in stressful environments. CLR says CutiGuard CLR acts strongly


against cell senescence. It reduces wrinkles and significantly improves skin smoothness as well as


PERSONAL CARE June 2022 Clariant Natural Ingredients


the evenness of skin colour – three crucial factors for a healthy and young appearance.


Coast Southwest introduced Kisolite BMP Biogenic Mineral Powder, a skincare ingredient processed using ethically harvested clay found near the coast of British Columbia. The clay is said to provide an abundant source of micro- and macro-minerals that are key to maintaining the balance of the skin’s microbiome. The company says the story of Kisolite


began centuries ago when the Heiltsuk people discovered a unique clay-like mineral with healing properties near pristine Kisameet Bay. This 100% natural material was likely created from a volcanic eruption that poured a mineral-rich slurry into a deep granite basin now famously known as the Kisameet Bay Clay Deposit.


Cornelius introduced Cor-Sil Avance, a patented water-in-silicone emulsifier that the company says “disrupts traditional silicone-based emulsion thinking and offers the opportunity to create impressive and award-winning cosmetic formulations”.


The unique molecular structure of Cor-Sil


Avance is said to allows rapid emulsification (reducing lab and factory production time by up to 50%) and emulsification at room temperature (saving up to 50oc on process heating). This shortened emulsification time and cold processing not only saves energy, reducing carbon footprint and cost but also liberates capacity at the manufacturing site. In addition, formulating with Cor-Sil Avance


is said to achieve a reduction of formulation ingredients in the chassis saving up to 40% on formulation costs, plus up to 50% reduction on raw material inventory management.


Croda showcased variety of innovative ingredients across hair, body, fragrance, sun, and skin products from its own company and subsidiary brand names. Highlights included Croda’s ECO Range of renewable, bio-based surfactants for personal care accelerates a sustainable future by using an alternate route to EO with bioethanol from biomass sources. Also on display was Croda’s KeraMatch V - a


protein blend derived from plant sources that have been explicitly designed to offer a viable alternative to animal-derived keratin – and Croda’s Nutrinvent Balance, which utilises a novel encapsulation technology to ensure the


targeted delivery and controlled release of actives on the scalp and hair, allowing consumers to adapt their usual hair routines for hair that looks and feels cleaner for longer. Also on show at the Croda booth was


Sederma’s BB-Biont protects the fourth skin layer, the microbiome, by selectively slowing down the growth of Cutibacterium acnes and deconstructing its biofilm to avoid inflammatory skin damage. Sederma’s Ameyezing meanwhile is obtained from supercritical CO2


extraction


of Zingiber zerumbet rhizome is an eco- socio-designed active effective on both hyperpigmented and vascular dark circles. Crodarom’s Phytessence Peach Flower is


an anti-asphyxia solution to fight against the harm of pollution caused by industrialization and growing urbanization while Crodarom Cider Vinegar EC is a fermented health and well-being ingredient with a French origin, made from apple cider with astringent, antibacterial, and balancing powers. Also at Croda was Alban Muller’s new


Glucohyami EC, a plant-derived glucosamine - a booster of hyaluronic acid synthesis. It provides anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, and eye contour and lip care benefits. Alban Muller’s Cytokalmine EC originates from the co-valorisation of pericarp taken from organic pomegranate, a superfruit universally recognized for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, cultivated in France by a partner who is passionate and engaged in the protection of the environment and biodiversity.


Deveraux Specialties launched DL Linefade, a vegan bio-active complex derived from renewably-sourced plant-based materials. This skincare ingredient reverses the age- related appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin by targeting collagen IV, which anchors the epidermis to the dermis. The company says the bio-activities involve


PPAR-α and its related retinoid pathways, as referenced in ‘PPAR-α agonist-containing olive leaf-derived complex induces collagen IV in human skin models,’ which was published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science in October 2021.


Dow unveiled its latest high-performing and renewable technologies to address diversity, inclusion and sustainability. The new products included DOWSIL 1686 Resin, a liquid phenyl silicone resin said to offer shine and radiance, contributes to colour value, enables good coverage and moderate wear in personal care applications. Also on show were EcoSense SL-60 HL


Surfactant and EcoSense SL-60 HA Surfactant, two new sophorolipid biosurfactants that enable the creation of highly desirable mild cleansing products. Also on display was Dow’s Textured Hair Kit of


formulations to address the needs of consumers with highly textured hair. The formulations in this kit highlight uses in cleansing, conditioning, styling and protecting hair colour. Other hair care products included MaizeCare


Clarity Polymer, a non-GMO corn-based ingredient enables the formulation of crystal-


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