NYSCC SUPPLIERS’ DAY 2022
clear hair styling formulations while offering versatility from low to high hair fixation, consistent curl retention, and new and desirable compatibility with carbomer. Dow’s EcoSmooth Rice Husk Cosmetic Powder
- upcycled from non-GMO natural sources – meanwhile is a white silica powder designed to deliver a sensorial experience and optical benefits like blurring imperfections and mattifying the skin due to its higher sebum absorption compared to other cosmetic powders. Dow says it suitable for many skin care, colour cosmetics and hair care formulations, and particularly relevant for natural- oriented positioning. In sun care solutions, Dow its new formulation
aid, DOWSIL ES-5700, which has high dispersing capabilities for fine powders in various carriers. It also showcased its new SPF booster, SunSpheres BIO, said to be a high performing, bio-derived and readily biodegradable SPF booster.
Evonik’s stand featured its newly launched Tego CBD Revitalize and next generation biosurfactant Rheance One plus its new Rheasome CeraBoost, which uses encapsulated ceramides to reignite a youthful appearance. Also on display was Evonik’s SK-INFLUX Evolve
MB, a ceramide in a multi-lamellar emulsion system; Tegosoft LO MB offers a natural alternative to mineral oil having comparable sensory properties; and Tego CBD Revitalize, its newest cannabinoid solution to protect skin strength. Additionally, Evonik’s new concept, Suspend
Simply & Sustainably, demonstrated how formulators can revamp wash-off systems to meet today’s trends.
Gattefossé highlighted Solastemis, its new active ingredient which it calls a ‘guardian of DNA’. The company says Solastemis acts at the heart of the epidermis mechanics, by protecting the DNA of keratinocytes from UVA rays and boosting endogenous DNA repair system. It preserves the stem cells of the epidermis,
ensuring proper homeostasis for the skin’s first line of defence. It also offers a shield for the dermis by protecting key matrix proteins (collagen, elastin) from degradation.
Givaudan Active Beauty launched an active cosmetic ingredient that naturally reduces the appearance of stretch marks. Centella CAST is the natural remodeling partner crafted by green fractionation from one of the most well-known medicinal plants, Centella Asiatica. Givaudan says by acting on the mechanisms
responsible for the formation of stretch marks, Centella CAST acts on four different levels to
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The concentrated phytoene is sourced from non-GMO fungi in a solvent-free process (CO2 super critical extraction), produced through a controlled fermentation pathway.
LipoTrue showcased what is claims to be the ultimate approach against stress with the Telessence concept. The range is based on three different classes of stress that affects skin appearance: ‘Phystress’ (physical), ‘Emostress’ (emotional) and ‘Envirostress’ (exposure to heat/ cold/dryness and UV/IR radiation). Telessence Mitelion is an ingredient obtained
Givaudan Active Beauty
restore skin elasticity, density and firmness, reducing the appearance of stretch marks for all consumers. Givaudan also showcased its new Cristalhyal
e-Perfection active, a patented vectorized complex of bentonite clay and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HA). Crafted by white biotechnology and powered by a modification of the electrostatic charges at HA molecule’s surface, the triple-action ingredient accesses the skin’s deep layers via electrical attraction to provide well-aging benefits, long-lasting hydration and mattifying effects.
Grant Industries introduced Gransense+, its newest natural additions to its ingredient tool chest. The package is designed to give compatible options for creating high-performance natural formulations that can include SPF, blurring, long wear, and/or colour possibilities. Highlighted by the Gransense elastomer series, it also includes Grant’s mineral UV Cut dispersions, biodegradable and ECHA compliant Granpowder BBP-700, and Gransperse pigment dispersions. In addition to formula flexibility, Gransense+ is said to enhance active stability and increase hydration properties.
IMCD unveiled ten market-ready prototypes as part of its new Biotech Beauty 2.0 collection. Less than six months since IMCD US introduced Biotech Beauty last year, the team has further developed the collection that explores its four pillars of biomimetics, artificial intelligence (AI), hybridization and sustainable solutions. The collection includes a men’s facial care kit and a dissolvable makeup kit – water-free, talc-free pectin formulations offering 24- hour hydration that also protect collagen and moisturize skin. The collection also includes Crushing It
Exfoliating Facial Cleanser – portable water-free tablet that turns into a creamy cleanser when water is added; Melt Away Pectin Cleanser – pectin film that dissolves into a foaming cleanser; and Oligo-Firming Mask-to-Foam Cleanser – deep pore cleansing mask for skin hydration and anti-pollution benefits.
Evonik
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Jojoba Desert was on hand to tell visitors about JD Phyto-Or 1%. The skin care ingredient features both JD Jojoba oil and concentrated phytoene, a colourless carotenoid, creating a novel anti-aging and high-performing active for glowing skin and hair.
from bilberry fruits and rosemary leaves designed to keep the mitochondria fit to tackle Phystress. Telessence Telmeric is biomimetic, both structurally and functionally of the turmeric spice (Curcuma longa), and designed to enhance skin resiliency against Envirostress. Finally, Telessence Breeztel modulates SP and
cortisol release preventing cell biological ageing caused by telomeres shortening, and destresses the skin by restoring and repairing epidermal and dermal emotional balance to fight Emostress.
Mibelle Biochemistry presents EpiCalsome, its the latest dermatological innovation designed to protect and renew the skin. EpiCalsome is a novel natural calcium complex that helps to replenish the skin’s calcium gradient to improves the skin barrier function and reduces trans epidermal water loss, which results in a healthy, vitalized, and protected skin. Visitors to the company’s Supplier’s Day also
discovered NovoRetin, a plant-based retinol alternative demonstrating exceptional benefits for impure skin and strong anti-aging effects. By inhibiting CYP26 enzymes that degrade retinoic acid, NovoRetin can increase the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid, the active form of retinol, in the skin. Mibelle also presented their new upcycling
cosmetic ingredient made from coffee silverskin called SLVR’Coffee.
Naolys showcased Serene Skin Sage, designed to boosts three aspects of the skin barrier: the physical barrier, by reinforcing the corneous layer; the chemical barrier by rebalancing the antimicrobial arsenal, and the immune-modulatory barrier by reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines. Developed from Salvia officinalis and made of
whole active plant cells, Serene Skin Sage is said to restore serenity and radiance to the skin by strengthening the functions of the skin barrier.
Nouryon highlighted its newest application kit promoting natural formulations for the whole body with skin, hair and sun care concepts along with hair styling solutions. Focus products included COSMOS-approved Amaze Nordic Barley, Amaze SP 100% natural polymer, SolAmaze Natural bio-based film former and Cekol cellulose gums, non-GMO based water-soluble polymers and biodegradable hydrocolloids. The company’s formulation guide contains
various differentiated active ingredients that deliver superior hydration properties, natural sensory modifiers that improve texture and performance and surface modifiers to improve flow, delivery and efficacy.
June 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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