42 HAIR STYLING
Ex vivo hair protection from UV-A-induced oxidation (carbonylation of keratin) After irradiation with UV-A (84 J/cm2
), keratin
carbonylation was labelled with a fluorescent marker. Fluorescence quantification was carried out, and the active was able to protect the shaft by 60%, the cuticle by 70%, and the cortex by 54% after only one application of the wild olive active ingredient compared to a pre-treatment with the placebo lotion (Figures 3A to 3D).
Ex vivo hair protection versus high temperatures (230°C) Hair straighteners can reach temperatures of up to 230°C, thus damaging the hair. Compared to placebo pre-treatment, the pre-treatment of tresses with the wild olive active ingredient protected hair from damage, as observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) (Figures 3E to 3H).
Ex vivo protection of hair colour in dyed hair vs. placebo lotion After 12 washing cycles, digital pictures were taken and analyzed, measuring the luminosity (L*), the red/green channel (a*), the blue/yellow channel (b*), and its variations (∆L*, ∆a* and ∆b*). An increase in luminosity (L*) indicates colour loss (lightening), and an increase in colour variation, or colour distance (E*), means an overall colour change. The colour difference is calculated as follows: ∆E* = SQRT ((∆L*)^2+(∆a*)^2+(∆b*)^2). The tresses were pre-washed with neutral
shampoo for one minute plus two minutes rinse-off, and then dried with a hair dryer. A treatment of ten minutes with each lotion plus a two-minute massage followed. After that, the tresses were allowed to dry and then a hair dye was applied, followed by 12 washing cycles, and finally, the colour was measured and compared
A C
Figure 2: Mechanism of action of the wild olive active ingredient. A dynamically encapsulated proteo-lipidic matrix that can reach hair cortex and scalp at the same time
with the initial colour. The active ingredient prevented the luminosity increase by a 37% and the colour variation by a 36%.
Ex vivo hair nourishing (delivery into the hair cortex) The proteo-lipidic matrix delivery into the hair cortex was analyzed by confocal microscopy. After the pre-treatment followed by incubation with a fluorescent marker binding the CMC, the product increased the delivery into cortex 3.1- fold versus the placebo (Figure 4).
Ex vivo hair thickness and volume (increase of hair diameter) The hair diameter was measured by micro-camera before and after treating with a placebo lotion or with a lotion containing 1% wild olive active ingredient. The protocol was based on pre-washing the tresses with neutral shampoo for one minute plus two minutes rinse-off and allowing to dry.
E Initial hair diameter measurements with
the micro-camera were performed, followed by a treatment of ten minutes with each lotion plus two-minute massage and allowing to dry. Finally, measurements of final hair diameter and comparison with initial diameter were carried out. The wild olive active ingredient significantly increased the hair diameter by a 14% (9.2 µm), while the placebo did not have any measurable effect on hair diameter.
Ex vivo hair strength increase The hair strength before and after a heat shock was also measured, as the maximum force (mN/µm) that it could withstand while being stretched before breaking. The final measurement was carried out 12 hours after application followed by the use of a hair straightener (230°C). The significantly increased the hair strength by a 49% versus the placebo.
G
B
D
F
H
Figure 3: Hair protection from UV-A and high temperature (230°C) by the wild olive active ingredient. Figure 3A: Pre-treated with placebo and irradiated with UV-A. Figure 3B: Pre-treated with placebo and irradiated with UV-A, sagittal view. Figure 3C: Pre-treated with lotion containing 1% wild olive active ingredient and irradiated with UV-A. Figure 3D: Pre-treated with lotion containing 1% wild olive active ingredient and irradiated with UV-A, sagittal view. Figure 3E & 3F: Pre-treated with placebo and exposed to a hair straightener (230°C). Figure 3G & 3H: Pre-treated with lotion containing 1% wild olive active ingredient and exposed to a hair straightener (230°C)
PERSONAL CARE June 2022
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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