TESTING
How testing innovation is meeting beauty trends
Anne Charpentier – Skinobs
For many years now, every cosmetic product launched on markets around the world has been validated for its safety and efficacy in accordance with the cosmetic regulations of each country. Product performance is changing along with consumer expectations, shopping habits, beauty routines and lifestyles. For the past two years, the health crisis has had an impact on the use of hand hygiene products specifically and on care and make-up products with new products resistant to the conditions of wearing a mask and the increase on the surface of the skin of temperature, humidity, CO2
and friction.
In addition, after the decrease in human activities related to confinement, large cities are regaining significant levels of pollution that have a significant impact on the condition of the skin. In recent months, here is what we have
been able to note from the observatory of tests that Skinobs represents and its consultations around the world. Three main trends stand out from the overall evolution of testing: ■ The development of tests related to the notions of wellbeing and clean beauty. ■ The increase in demand for proof of product performance. ■ The development of in vitro assays.
How wellbeing and clean beauty influence testing Many elements influence the beauty industry and consequently the testing sector. Consumers are increasingly sensitive to social responsibility in relation to climate change. Their digital habits also significantly influence their purchasing methods and their perceptions of the performance of cosmetic products. Consumers are increasingly involved in
their uses, looking for personalized care, DIY and products claims that are ever more ‘friendly’ – not just for the environment but also for the skin, hair and nails. The notion of ‘friendly’ has many attributes, be they the ‘vegan’ approach, the skin microbiome or the wellbeing felt after the use of personal care. Stability tests and those concerning the evaluation of skin irritation have taken a whole new ‘vegan’ direction so much cited by consumers. Consumers are torn between an
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increasingly harmful social conscience and the environment. The influence of environmental parameters such as pollution impacts the proposed claims. According to the expectations of manufacturers, the test laboratories offer many protocols for evaluating the anti-pollution effect of visible light, blue light, microparticles or various pollutants. These tests can be carried out in vitro and in vivo on humans in situ in heavily polluted cities or thanks to pollution chambers such as those proposed by various companies such as Proderm, CIDP or Ellead.
Product sustainability, a major consideration Personal care must be ‘clean’, both in terms of formulas that are becoming ever more ‘natural’ and whose all-problematic ingredients must be quantified. New methods of quantification of endocrine disruptors are developed through different thyroid, estrogenic or androgenic axes as proposed by
the companies Watchfrog and Nir-Industry. Some laboratories such as Intertek
France offer to identify up to 57 allergens. Nanoparticles are closely analyzed using physico-chemical methods and follow increasingly specific regulations. As for content/content interaction tests and biodegradability tests, they are also becoming more democratic, and the arrival of recycled packaging increases this demand. For sun care products, despite the need
for their use to limit the progression of skin cancers, the challenge of their use is crucial all over the planet and new, multiparametric methods make it possible to quantify their harmful actions on corals.
Sophistication of testing methods Proof as a measure of product activity is developing beyond consumer testing through the evolution of physical measurement technologies supported by the vast field of AI and data processing. Skin measuring devices
June 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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