HAIR STYLING
Naturally flawless hair whatever the weather
Lidia Kulcsar, David Streuli, Roger L. McMullen, Coralie Alonso, Michael Franzke, Richard Giles – Ashland ABSTRACT
Ashland’s styleze™es-dura ingredient (INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) is a plant-based styling agent with conditioning properties, offering leading-edge performance and sustainability. This novel ingredient delivers outstanding all-weather style durability with a salon- and consumer- proven sensorial experience. It brings a uniquely strong sustainability profile, which enables naturally-derived, biodegradable,1
vegan, and clean INCI
claims in finished formulations. The ingredient is highly versatile, giving formulators the flexibility to create both modern and traditional hair care products for flawless styles and curl definition, a natural look and feel, and excellent style durability in any weather.
Performance hair styling has traditionally been based on synthetic technologies, but as consumers and regulators push for ever greater environmental and social responsibility, many of these high performing technologies are facing close scrutiny. Ashland styleze es-dura (henceforth Guar HPT Chloride) offers a true sustainable alternative to synthetic ingredients as a nature-based technology (naturality index >87%), which is globally compliant, inherently biodegrable,1
and is included in Ashland’s
sustainable guar sourcing programme.2 The molecular properties have been
optimized to deliver outstanding style durability in the most challenging weather conditions including rain showers, arid conditions, and hot and humid conditions. It was developed
INCI Deionised Water
Styleze™ es-dura ingredient OR benchmark polymer at eq. active matter**
Promidium* CO Jeequat* CT-29
Optiphen™preservative Ritalac* LA Isobutane
Suppliers: 1. Local Aqua (Water)
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol Isobutane
Cetrimonium Chloride Lactic Acid
2. Ashland 3. Croda 4. Jeen International 5. Rita Corporation
in collaboration with salon professionals and offers a proven in-use experience with easy distribution through the hair, control and condition during style creation, and exceptional durability during wear with a surprisingly natural movement and feel.
Performance evaluations The benefits of Guar HPT Chloride were assessed side by side with market-leading benchmarks Polyquaternium-11 and Polyquaternium-4 (hereafter PQ-11 and PQ-4) in a simple mousse formulation in which the styling polymer performs as the principal performance and sensorial driver (Table 1). These formulations were benchmarked using various style durability tests, including high
TABLE 1: DEFINED BY NATURE™ SOLUTIONS – ALL-WEATHER STYLING MOUSSE Ingredients
Supplier % w/w 1
2 3
4 2 5 1
90.73** 2.00 0.15
0.25 0.75
0.12** 6.00
* Trademark of third party ** In benchmarking formulations, PQ-11 or PQ-4 polymers were included in amounts equivalent to 2% active level. The pH of the formula for all polymers was adjusted to 5.250.25, and water used at Q.S. when benchmark polymers were used
100.00 90.00 80.00 70.00 60.00 50.00 40.00 30.00 20.00 10.00 0.00
0.00 12.00 24.00 Time (hours)
Figure 1: Comparison of high humidity curl retention for Guar HPT Chloride, PQ-11, and PQ-4
www.personalcaremagazine.com June 2022 PERSONAL CARE 36.00 48.00
humidity curl retention (HHCR), simulated rain shower, three-point bending, and Volscan Profiler volumization methods. Unless otherwise noted, tress tests were
done with Caucasian virgin hair purchased from International Hair Importers & Products, and Kerling International. Mannequins with different hair types were also used (curly, bleached, or colored hair) for some visual assessments.
Resistance to hot and humid conditions For the HHCR test, hair tresses (straight European dark brown virgin, 2g, 6.5 inch) were treated with 0.3g of formulation (or equivalent containing 2% PQ11 polymer, as active), then diagonally curled and air dried and then were
PQ-11 ■ Guar HPT Chloride ■ PQ-4 ■
51
avg % retention
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88
