54 HAIR STYLING Figure 7 shows Guar HPT Chloride creates
a larger increase in volume compared to PQ-11. This demonstrates that Guar HPT Chloride is suitable for volumized styling of fine hair.
Reduction of static flyaway under dry conditions Static builds up in hair due to friction or changes in humidity.
It is a concern for hair
especially during winter, when hats, lack of moisture in the air, and heated indoor environments are prevalent. Hair that is straightened using the brushing and blow- drying technique, or friction from plastic combs can also exacerbate static flyaways. Guar HPT Chloride has the demonstrated
ability to reduce static flyaway in dry, arid conditions. This test was carried out on a mannequin head with bleached, medium- length straight hair. The mousse formula was applied to hair before brushing and blow- drying with a round brush, then combed five times with the wide tooth section of an ACE plastic comb (to see if hair is attracted to comb). As seen in Figure 8, the side of the mannequin head treated with PQ-11 has much more static-induced flyaway than the side treated with Guar HPT Chloride.
Sensory attributes The sensory attributes of Guar HPT Chloride were evaluated on mannequins with various styling techniques by an expert stylist. The results are shown in Figure 9 in the form of a spider chart. Guar HPT Chloride imparts a conditioned
care sensorial profile when incorporated into products, and improves the user experience during use. When added to mousse and other styling formats, Guar HPT Chloride adds gloss to the formulation and allows foam to hold its shape on the hand, but then to break down easily during application providing cushion and glide as it is distributed through wet or damp hair.
During styling it brings conditioning and manageability to hair, allowing precision
PQ-11
40.0 35.0 30.0 25.0 20.0 15.0 10.0 5.0 0.0
32.2
21.6
Guar HPT Chloride Figure 7: Hair volume of half head mannequin test
sculpting of many hair styles. When used during heat styling (e.g., brushing and blow drying), it holds the shape of hair and leaves hair feeling smooth from root to tip. When styling is completed, Guar HPT
Chloride helps control frizz and flyway in dry conditions, helps prevent humidity induced frizz, and leaves hair looking and feeling naturally beautiful. When re-wetted, hair styled with Guar HPT Chloride can easily be refreshed or re-styled.
Conclusion The new and novel styleze es-dura is a high- performing, plant-based sensorial styling agent with a strong sustainability profile, bringing high naturality and inherent biodegradability. It is a versatile, multifunctional ingredient that delivers performance for a broad range of hair types and hair styles, such as blow-outs for fine/thin hair to lasting curls and improved definition for textured hair. Styling products containing Guar HPT Chloride have been shown to deliver
GUAR HPT CHLORIDE
exceptional style durability, all-weather style retention and frizz resistance. This well-rounded performance package gives formulators the flexibility to create both modern and traditional styling products which offer durable styles with a natural look and feel.
References 1. Ashland. Unpublished Data. Bradford Measurement Science Laboratory, Bradford UK. Study of cationic guars following OECD Testing Guideline 302B (Zahn-Wellens/ EMPA Test) and OECD Testing Guideline 306 (Biodegradability in Seawater). 2021
2. Ashland. Ashland innovative supplier partnership powers sustainable, profitable growth for local farmers and small villages in India. April 2022. https://
www.globenewswire.com/news- release/2022/04/03/2415231/0/en/ Ashland-innovative-supplier-partnership- powers-sustainable-profitable-growth-for- local-farmers-and-small-villages-in-India. html
PQ-11 mousse ■ Styleze™ es-dura mousse■ foam shape low residue coated feel Static Shine elasticity initial hold Figure 8: Reduced static PERSONAL CARE June 2022 Figure 9: Salon sensorial evaluation of styling
www.personalcaremagazine.com
5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
ease of distribution adhesion on hand wet feel
volume after blow-dry ease of brushing
PQ-11
PC
Increase in volume after treated with hair mousse (%)
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