HAIR STYLING
TABLE 3: HAIR GEL FORMULA WITH CARRAGEENAN RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS Ingredient
INCI Name Water MaizeCare Clarity Polymer
Versene NA2 Crystals Chelating Agent Genugel Carrageenan CG-130 Genuvisco Carrageenan CG-131 Neolone PH 100
overnight, and placed in a humidity chamber at 25°C and 80% relative humidity for 24 hours. As the data in Figure 10 indicates, the hair gel from Table 3 gives excellent high humidity curl retention which outperforms the commercial benchmark with a PVP fixative.
Conclusions A novel hydrolysed corn starch that delivers excellent benefits in leave on hair styling applications has been presented. HCS can be used in formulas ranging from soft to stiff hold, with higher concentrations of HCS delivering greater stiffness. The non- hygroscopic nature of HCS allows it to deliver excellent curl retention and outperform PVP under high humidity conditions. This novel HCS has the flexibility to
create high clarity formulas with synthetic (Carbomer), hybrid (Hydroxyethyl Cellulose), and natural (Carrageenan) rheology modifiers. The ability to create high clarity formulas addresses a shortcoming of other natural fixatives, including other corn starch materials. MaizeCare Clarity Polymer offers hair care formulators the opportunity to design styling
■ A ■ B ■ C ■ D ■ E
100.00 90.00 80.00 70.00 60.00 50.00 40.00 30.00 20.00 10.00 0.00
0 0.5 1 Time (hr) 2 4 8 24
Figure 9: High humidity curl retention (25°C, 80% RH) for hair gel in Table 2. A – Hair gel from Table 2. B – Hair gel from Table 2 without HCS (no fixative). C – Commercial hair gel with Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolysed Corn Starch fixative. D – Commercial hair gel with VP/VA Copolymer fixative. E – Tress treated with water
■ A ■ B ■ C
100.00 90.00 80.00 70.00 60.00 50.00 40.00 30.00 20.00 10.00 0.00
0 0.5 1 Time (hr) 2 4 8 24
Figure 10: High humidity curl retention (25°C, 80% RH) for hair gel in Table 3. A – Hair gel from Table 3. B – Commercial hair gel with PVP fixative. C – Tress treated with water
www.personalcaremagazine.com June 2022 PERSONAL CARE A B C Water
Hydrolysed Corn Starch Disodium EDTA Carrageenan Carrageenan
Phenoxyethanol w/w %
94.40 3.00 0.05 0.30 1.75
0.50
formulations that can meet growing consumer expectations for natural hair care products.
References 1. Gleason-Allured J. 2022 Beauty Trends. Global Cosmetic Industry Magazine. 8 December 2021.
https://www.gcimagazine.com/consumers- markets/news/21940399/2022-beauty-trends
2. Mintel.
https://reports.mintel.com/ display/988176/#
3. Mintel.
https://reports.mintel.com/ display/986932/#
4. Mintel.
https://data.mintel.com/databook/ global-consumer-march-2021-beauty- personal-care-household-march-2021/
5. Mintel.
https://www.gnpd.com/ sinatra/analysis/chart_results/search/ uerFkmTmIt/?analysis_id=c64e1084-e1e5-4f2f- b1ed-06742e4d39f7&current_tab=c64e1084- e1e5-4f2f-b1ed-06742e4d39f7 (accessed 15 April 2022)
6. Gleason-Allured J, Grabenhofer RL. Clean Beauty Decoded. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 134(10):18-25
7. McNamara JT, Morgan JLW, Zimmer J. A Molecular Description of Cellulose Biosynthesis. Annu Rev Biochem. 2015; 84:895-921
A B C D E PC
49
Curl retention (%)
Curl retention (%)
After 24h After 24h Initial
Initial
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