52 HAIR STYLING
exposed to 90% relative humidity at 85˚F/29˚C over 48 hours. The results are presented as percentage value of elongation from curled form to straight. In the results of this test shown in Figure 1,
we observe that Guar HPT Chloride and PQ-4 provide superior curl retention under high humidity conditions, maintaining the form of the curl over a 48-hour period. PQ-11 - an ingredient with strong performance in ambient conditions - performs poorly when exposed to this humidity stress test, losing curl form and exhibiting severe frizz within two hours. The benefits of Guar HPT Chloride at high
humidity were also confirmed with studies on mannequins. In the example shown in Figure 2, a mannequin head (textured dark brown virgin hair) was treated on one side with a formulation containing 2% Guar HPT Chloride, the other side with formulation containing 2% PQ-11. The hair was styled and air dried; the mannequin was then exposed to 90% relative humidity at 85˚F/29˚C for two hours. After two hours of exposure to high humidity, the side treated with the formulation containing Guar HPT Chloride exhibits better curl definition and less frizz volume.
Rain shower resistance For the simulated rain shower test, hair tresses were treated with benchmark formulations from table 1, and either diagonally curled (Figure 3, straight European dark brown virgin, 2g, 6.5 inch, treated with 0.3 g of formulation) or rolled around a corkscrew roller (Figure 4, straight European dark brown virgin, 0.5g, 22 cm, treated with 0.1g of formulation) and left to air dry. Tresses were mounted and sprayed with 10g of water on the outside and inside of the curl. In both Figures 3 and 4, it can be readily
observed that the curled or coiled tress treated with Guar HPT Chloride retains its shape much more effectively than the PQ-11 benchmark even after being drenched with water. In both cases, the tress treated with PQ-11 exhibits
BEFORE SPRAYING Guar HPT Chloride PQ-11
Figure 2: Mannequin in high humidity
significant elongation and loss of form for both curl types.
Durability and toughness testing For the three-point bending measurements, studies were done with light brown medium density hair tresses (1 in. wide; 7.5 in. long), using a texture analyzer (TA XT Plus model, Stable Micro Systems). In this technique, a triangular-shaped probe compresses the
AFTER SPRAYING
sample 10 millimeters below the plane of two supporting cantilevers. The F1 value provides us with an indication
of the initial stiffness of a hair set. Stiffness is an important consumer cue for styling products. The residual stiffness is derived from F10, which is the maximum force in the 10th deformation. This correlates with the robustness of the treatment to maintain a hair style or withstand the effects of motion, manipulation, and gravity on the hair set. Overall, toughness is obtained by measuring
the area underneath the stress-strain curve in the first deformation. It provides a clear indication of the overall strength of the hair fiber-polymer assembly. This indicates the ability of the polymer to maintain style integrity. As seen in Figures 5a, 5b and 5c, the formula
PQ-11 Guar HPT Chloride PQ-11 Figure 3: Evaluation using simulated rain shower method – curls Guar HPT Chloride
with Guar HPT Chloride exhibits higher initial and residual stiffness compared to formulations prepared with PQ-11 or PQ-4. It is also observed that Guar HPT Chloride exhibits higher overall toughness than PQ-11 and PQ-4. The mechanical properties (stiffness and
elasticity) of the polymers were also evaluated under different humidity conditions and are reported in Figure 6.
Elastic modulus PQ-11 Guar HPT Chloride PQ-11 Figure 4: Evaluation using simulated rain shower method – spiral PERSONAL CARE June 2022 Guar HPT Chloride
The elastic modulus describes the relative stiffness (rigidity) of a material. A stiff material will have a high elastic modulus, while a flexible material has a low elastic modulus. Elasticity is the ability to resist deformation and return back to the original position. Flexibility means the material will deform
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Polyquaternium-11
Guar HPT Chloride
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