44 HAIR STYLING
with quantitative RT-PCR (qRT-PCR) from ten volunteers. Versus initial measurement, the active
increased the expression of Versican by 15%, and the expression of collagen XVIIA by 34%, thus reinforcing the anchoring of hair follicles into scalp. Finally, the scalp trans-epidermal water loss
(TEWL) was analyzed both before and after the 28 days with two applications/day on the scalp by the 15 volunteers. The wild olive active ingredient significantly
reduced the scalp TEWL at 28 days by 19% versus initial measurement, hydrating the scalp.
Conclusion The active ingredient Elaya Renova, based on the hair tensegrity concept, protects and strengthens the whole hair structure, from the scalp to the hair shaft. Specifically enriched in a nourishing proteo-lipidic matrix, it reinforces both hair and scalp from the inside. On the scalp, it regenerates the fibroblasts,
and the ‘young’ collagen type III, as well as protecting from oxidative stress and excessive inflammatory response. This is of special interest for soothing the sensitive scalp. On hair, it gives higher thickness and volume,
as well as higher strength, at the same time it protects from damage caused by UV or high temperatures like those achieved with hair straighteners, and it helps maintaining hair colour longer after application of hair dyes. While opening a new vision for the whole
hair care market, the active approaches cosmetic applications such as hair care ‘skinification’, hair volumizing and hydrating, as well as hair & scalp care - protection, restructuring, regeneration, revitalizing, reinforcing and in general, beautifying. This new active ingredient from Olea
europaea stem cells brings a paradigm in cosmetics and a new way for the protection and restructuring of both hair and scalp at the same time. It offers a new path that does not require the use of different products for each application (hair and scalp, protection and revitalizing), offering the possibility of a multi-activity ingredient to approach all the needs of hair care in one raw material.
References 1. Gamez-Garcia M. The Cuticle Sheath of Hair: A Functionally Graded Material. 20th International Hair Science Symposium, Dresden, Germany. September 6-8, 2017.
2. Yang Y et al. Structure and mechanical behaviour of human hair. Material Science and Engineering. C73 (2017) 152-163
3. Valentín Gómez Jáuregui. Tensegrity structures and their application to architecture. Thesis. Queen’s University Belfast. 2004
4. Ingher DE, Wang N, Stamenovic D. Tensegrity, Cellular biophysics, and the mechanics of living systems. Rep Prog Phys. 2014 Apr;77(4)
5. Tajran J, Gosman AA. Anatomy, Head and Neck, Scalp. StatPearls Publishing LLC. 2020
6. Trüeb RM, Henry JP, Davis MG, Schwartz JR. Scalp Condition Impacts Hair Growth and Retention via Oxidative Stress. Int J Trichology. 2018;10(6):262-270
PERSONAL CARE June 2022 Figure 6: Scalp redness reduction by the wild olive active ingredient was higher than with the placebo
7. Aloso L et al. Hair cycle. J. Cell Science 119. 391-393. 2006
8. https://hairskinbodysoul.wordpress. com/2011/04/30/beauty-and-health-102/
9. Ji S, Zhu Z, Sun X, Fu X. Functional hair follicle regeneration: an updated review. Signal Transduct Target Ther. 2021 Feb 17;6(1):66
10. Iozzo RV. Matrix proteoglycans: from molecular design to cellular function. Annual Review of Biochemistry. Vol. 67, no. 1. pp. 609–652. 1998
11. Kishimoto R et al. Selective activation of the versican promoter by epithelial- mesenchymal interactions during hair follicle
development. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. Vol. 96, no. 13. pp. 7336–7341. 1999
12. Kyoumi S et al. Expression of anti-aging type- XVII collagen (COL17A1/BP180) in hair follicle- associated pluripotent (HAP) stem cells during differentiation. Tissue Cell. 2019. 59: 33-38
13. Watanabe M et al. Type XVII collagen coordinates proliferation in the interfollicular epidermis. Elife. 2017. Jul 11; 6: e26635
14. Ohta N et al. Structural Analysis of cell membrane complex of hair fiber by micro x-ray beam. Spring 8. http://www.spring8.
or.jp/pdf/en/res_fro/05/028-029.pdf
www.personalcaremagazine.com BEFORE AFTER 1 APPLICATION
PC
Elaya Renova™
Placebo
Elaya Renova™
Placebo
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