HAIR STYLING ■ 6% HCS ■ 6% PVP ■ Untreated 100.0 80.0 60.0 40.0 20.0 0.0 Initial Figure 3: 6% polymer solutions applied to hair
important to recognize that not all materials with the INCI name Hydrolysed Corn Starch will have the same properties and benefits. HCS acts as a film-former and styling aid
that can range from soft-touch styling at low use levels (~1%) to exceptional stiffness at higher use levels (~5%). It is well suited for supporting market demand for clear and natural formulations. Additionally, as the data shared here will demonstrate, HCS does not require hair care brands to sacrifice performance when switching from synthetic hair fixatives such as PVP.
Aqueous polymer solutions The capability of HCS to form a film on the hair was demonstrated by preparing a 6% solution of HCS in water. 0.3g of the polymer solution was applied to 3g virgin brown hair tresses. The tresses were placed in a humidity chamber at 25°C and 80% relative humidity. The data in Figure 3 shows that HCS exhibits excellent curl retention under high humidity conditions and is superior to PVP. The superior performance of HCS when
compared to PVP is due to the non-hygroscopic nature of the HCS. The water vapour absorption data in Figure 4 demonstrates that HCS absorbs less water vapour than PVP.
25 20 15 10 5 0
0 -5 -10 Relative humidity (%) Figure 4: Water vapour absorption
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Fixative Polymer Triethanolamine
Triethanolamine
1.0-5.0 1.0
June 2022 PERSONAL CARE 10 20 30
Hair gel testing The hair gel formula in Table 1 was developed to benchmark the performance of HCS against other hair fixatives.
a. Gel clarity Figure 5 shows the clarity of several different hair gels measured in nephelometric turbidity units (NTU). HCS and comparative hair fixatives were evaluated at a 5% use level in the test formula from Table 1. Commercial benchmarks were also included in the study. Typically, hair gels with NTU values below 20 will appear clear to the human eye. As shown in Figure 5, gels that use PVP as the sole fixative (commercial benchmark #1 and test formula) have excellent clarity (NTU < 20). Maltodextrin/VP Copolymer is a hybrid
material that combines natural and synthetic chemistries. In the test formula, Maltodextrin/ VP Copolymer was measured at 20.5 NTU, placing it right on the boundary of visual clarity. Dehydroxanthan Gum is a fully natural hair fixative; commercial benchmark #3 and the test formula demonstrate Dehydroxanthan Gum has poor visual clarity. The progressive loss in clarity when going
from synthetic (PVP) to hybrid (Maltodextrin/ VP Copolymer) to natural (Dehydroxanthan
PVP ■ Maize Clarity Polymer■
Gum) hair fixatives has long been a challenge for hair care formulators. Even the comparative hydrolysed corn starch did not give good clarity in the test formula. Only the novel HCS polymer (MaizeCare Clarity Polymer) addresses the need to offer a fully natural hair fixative with clarity comparable to PVP.
b. Hair stiffness Stiffness was measured using an MTT160 instrument from Dia-Stron Limited. Virgin brown hair tresses were treated with the hair gel in Table 1 and allowed to dry overnight prior to testing. The peak force (stiffness) was measured by pressing the curled tress to 25% of its initial diameter. Two commercial benchmarks were included in the study. Results are shown in Figure 6. Increasing the use level of HCS from 1% to 5%
led to an increase in hair stiffness. This allows formulators to design formulas ranging from subtle to stiff hold depending on the concentration of HCS in the formula. There was no statistical difference in hold between HCS and PVP at 5% active concentration. c. Curl retention 3g hair tresses treated with 0.3g of the hair gel in Table 1 were curled and allowed to dry overnight. After drying the tresses were placed in a humidity chamber at 25°C and
TABLE 1: HAIR GEL FORMULATION Ingredient
Water Carbopol 980
Versene NA2 Crystals Chelating Agent
40 50 60 70 80 Glycerin Water Carbomer Disodium EDTA Glycerin INCI Name
w/w % 90.9
1.0 0.1 3.0 30 min 1h 2h Time (hr) 4h 8h 24h
47
Weight change (%) T=24hr T=8hr T=0
% Curl Retention
Untreated 6% PVP 6% HCS
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