48 HAIR STYLING
Commercial hair gels ■ Comparative styling polymers in test formula from Table 1 ■ Novel HCS polymer in test formula from Table 1 ■
250 200 150 100 50 0
1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0
A B C D E
Figure 5: Hair gel clarity. Commercial benchmark #1 contains PVP fixative. Commercial benchmark #2 contains PVP and Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer fixatives. Commercial benchmark #3 contains Dehydroxanthan Gum fixative
80% relative humidity for 24 hours. The tresses treated with HCS provided greater than 90% curl retention. The superior performance of HCS when compared to PVP is due to the non-hygroscopic nature of HCS.
d. Residue & flaking Residue and flaking of the hair gel in Table 1 with 5% HCS was applied to the hair (0.35g gel per 3.5g hair). The gel was allowed to dry, and then a comb was passed through the hair five times. As demonstrated in Figure 6, there was no white residue or flaking on the hair after combing.
Alternative rheology modifiers Carbomer rheology modifiers are currently the most widely used rheology modifiers in hair gel formulas. However, hair gel formulas with natural rheology modifiers are worth considering based on the current market trend towards sustainability and clean beauty. HCS has also been shown to exhibit excellent performance with naturally derived rheology modifiers. The formula in Table 2 demonstrates the performance benefits of HCS in a hair
100 80 60 40 20 0
A B C D E
Figure 7: High humidity curl retention at 24 hours (25°C, 80% RH). A – Commercial hair gel with PVP fixative. B – Commercial hair gel with PVP and Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer fixatives. C – Gel from Table 1 with 5% PVP. D – Gel from Table 1 with 1% HCS. E – Gel from Table 1 with 5% HCS
PERSONAL CARE June 2022
Figure 6: Hair stiffness. A – Commercial hair gel with PVP fixative. B – Commercial hair gel with PVP and Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer fixatives. C – Gel from Table 1 with 5% PVP. D – Gel from Table 1 with 1% HCS. E – Gel from Table 1 with 5% HCS
TABLE 2: HAIR GEL WITH HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE RHEOLOGY MODIFIER Ingredient
INCI Name Water
MaizeCare Clarity Polymer Glycerin
Versene NA2 Crystals Chelating Phenoxyethanol
Cellosize Hydroxyethyl Cellulose PCG-10 Triethanolamine Lactic Acid
gel thickened with Cellosize™ Hydroxyethyl Cellulose PCG-10 (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose). Cellulose is a natural material and the most abundant biopolymer on Earth.7 As a modified cellulosic polymer, Cellosize Hydroxyethyl Cellulose PCG-10 consists of 60% bio-based carbon by weight. Hair tresses (3g) treated with 0.3g of
the hair gel in Table 2 were curled, dried overnight, and placed in a humidity chamber at 25°C and 80% relative humidity for 24 hours. As shown in Figure 9, the gel formula from Table 2 (Sample A) gives excellent performance under high humidity conditions.
Water
Hydrolysed Corn Starch Glycerin
Disodium EDTA Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Triethanolamine Lactic Acid
w/w % 91.87 3.00 3.00 0.10 0.90 0.80 0.20 0.13
When HCS is removed from the formula
(Sample B), there is a significant loss of curl retention. Sample A also outperformed Sample C, which was a commercial hair gel with Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolysed Corn Starch as the fixative. The hair gel in Table 3 was prepared using
carrageenan rheology modifiers (Genugel CG-130 and Genuvisco CG-131). Using these rheology modifiers at the ratio shown in Table 3 provides the formula with a jelly-like texture. This gel contains greater than 99% natural content. Hair tresses (3g) treated with 0.3g of the hair gel in Table 2 were curled, dried
Figure 8: Optical micrograph of hair after combing
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Curl retention (%) NTU
After 24h
Initial
Stiffness (gmf)
Commercial benchmark #1 Commercial benchmark #2
Commercial benchmark #3 5% Polyvinylpyrrolidone 5% Maltodextrin/VP Copolymer 5% Dehydroxanthan Gum
5% Comparative hydrolyzed corn starch 5% MaizeCare Clarity Polymer
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