26 TESTING


are being improved and new methods of measuring the biomechanical properties of the skin are coming more specifically. Personal care products offering an


efficacy on the skin biomechanical properties are often linked to anti- ageing claim category. These products are associated to various functionalities such as lifting, firming, remodelling, plumping, sculpting, restructuring or tonic. The firmness and the tonicity are skin attributes that are constantly impacted by the exposome – a concept developed by Dr Jean Krutman in 2016 - and all the non-genetic factors that influence the skin ageing. Direct biometrological assessments are designed to measure the elasticity and the firmness of the dermis through various instrumentations that enable quantification on several regions of the face and the body. There are several instrumentations


used by testing labs all over the world: Dynaskin-I (Eotech, Orion), SkinFlex (Orion), Ballistometer (Dia-Stron), Cutometer, Indentometer and Cutiscan (Courage & Khazaka), Elastimeter (Delfin), DermaLab Elasticity (Cortex). Real-time deformation using several


techniques - ballistomery, suction, indentation or airflow - is implemented one or more times on the surface of the skin. Then, the induced biomechanical behavior is measured by the principle of optical or marginal projection. Indirect measurements, used to analyze


the biomechanical properties of the skin are often provided by information on the collagen, the volume of the face, the molecular composition, the impacts analyzed by proteomic and metagenomic analysis, the size and shape of the dermis, and the appearance and structure of the skin. Today, the latest innovative technologies


to measure the tonicity of the skin are advancing towards more contactless and an increase of the number of optical sensors. The latest devices evaluating firmness, tone or elasticity are the Dynaskin-II (Eotech), the SkinFlex (Orion), the Waveskin or the Underskin (LTDS). New instrumental innovations are being validated, thus opening a new field of investigation of anti-ageing products and active ingredients. The analysis of the barrier function sees


the emergence of devices offering an increase in the number of sensors or the possibility of combining quantification and visualization of effects. We find the Epsilon Dermalyser (Biox), the VisioScan or the Tewameter TM Hex (Courage & Khazaka). The preliminary discussion with the CROs to design the study (timeline, duration, conditions of use of the products, inclusion criteria, instrumentation choice etc.), seems to be essential to define the best protocol to support the claim substantiation. The structure of the skin is also studied


from all angles and at almost all depths from the superficial layers to the deepest. Scanners


PERSONAL CARE June 2022


Microbiota evaluation confirms its development The interest of microbiota in skin care remains an important trend. Studies started in early 2010 and its analysis has become ever more specific and sophisticated. It started with a lot of claims like pre- or probiotic, and it seems today that scientific and marketing teams are mainly talking about products that preserve the skin microbiota. The bacteria ecosystem (micro-


organisms, bacteria, viruses, fungi, yeasts) synthetises a myriad of elements which


have an important metabolic activity for the skin health. It could be necessary to protect,


to rebalance and activate it on the cosmetics side. Put simply, the aim for personal care could


and ultrasound analysis evaluate tissue thickness and density in vivo, while confocal microscopy measurements allow layer-by- layer visualization and cellular quantification. Raman spectroscopy (RiverD) provides


precise quantification of skin composition such as natural moisturising factor content. The latest is LC-OCT microscopy from dermatology and combines in a single device a 3D visualization, video and cellular quantification using a non-invasive probe. Because the image is recognized by


consumers as irrefutable proof of the effects of a product, the use of before/after images of the face or specific parts is on the rise. High-definition camera systems associated with data processing algorithms are being perfected offering wider measurement areas, multi-parametric measurements, 3D reconstructions: Antera 3D (Miravex), Visia CR New generation available in the USA, the C-Cube (Pixience), the ColorFace, the EyelashCam (Newtone), HeadScan Dynamic (Orion Concept).


The new trend for nomadic tests While waiting for product performance evaluation, a new trend of nomadic tests is emerging with mirroring the use of diagnostic applications and associated recommendations for skin and hair care consumers. Carrying out tests at home as close as possible to the normal conditions of use of the subjects becomes a popular option for cosmetic manufacturers. Mobile facial measuring devices have


emerged increasing the compliance of subjects and the interaction of laboratories with subjects for photos or firmness measurements more frequent, as proposed by the Homelab Selfie (Orion Concept). The advancement of biometrological


measurements in clinical trials is driven by the development of the use of artificial intelligence and specific algorithms in data processing. Creations of ‘average’ faces, virtual average of the faces studied allows anonymized scientific communication of the results and a more adequate response to consumers’ expectations of tangible and visual evidence.


be to reduce the ‘bad’ bacteria and protect the ‘good’ ones! Yet the notion of ‘bad’ or ‘good’ is relative depending on the physiological state of the skin. Things are not so simple! The balance of cutaneous microflora (500


bacteria species) is dependent of the several conditions of its ecosystem: temperature, pH, hormones, light, UV, lipids, proteins, water etc. It is mainly influenced by the genetic, the lifestyle, the age, the hygiene, and the diet. Each person has his/her own skin flora composition, distributed from the epidermis until the dermis, which is lifelong qualitatively stable, like a personal microbial footprint. This skin microflora is fundamental for the skin homeostasis and contributes to the immune and barrier functions. Situations where pathogenic bacteria overwhelm commensal bacteria are often associated with drier and sensitive skin conditions. Furthermore, various bacteria disorders might be considered as a source of cutaneous dysfunctions like acne, eczema or atopic dermatitis modifying this precious balance. Currently, the approach of supporting


the microbiota activity of cosmetics is still in its early stages. Many testing laboratories are studying these new claims looking in the direction of the metagenomic field. The study of the cutaneous flora is


complex, and it is not always easy to understand its functionalities and interactions with the skin metabolism. The first way is to analyze the genome of the bacteria of the skin flora. It is a living layer of the skin to be discovered like a new continent of the body.


In vitro and ex vivo assays development In vitro and ex vivo assays offer a large opportunity for active ingredient and other personal care manufacturers to increase their knowledge of the mechanisms of action of their products on the skin. I will discuss the three main topics that are now under the spotlight of preclinical evaluation: the barrier function, the extra-cellular matrix and oxidative damages. To better understand the effect of a


molecule on a precise step, cell type, or signalling pathway, various models can be used: cell cultures (e.g., keratinocytes or fibroblasts) or cocultures (e.g. with neurons


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