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46 HAIR STYLING


Hydrolysed corn starch for natural hair styling


Sam Costanzo, Kinjal Joshi, Gislene Attilio Meyer - Dow Personal Care


Hair care consumers today are increasingly focused on selecting products that contain natural ingredients without sacrificing performance. In the hair styling segment specifically, social media influencers are encouraging consumers to think about creative approaches to hair styling. Today’s younger generations see hair styling as a way to express their individuality. According to search data from Pinterest, interest in natural hair textures has grown significantly in recent years. During the period from October 2019 to September 2021, searches for short natural hairstyles jumped by 185%, high puff styles grew by 165%, natural hair bun styles grew by 160%, and space bun natural hair grew by 100%.1 Although hair styling and natural


ingredients are growing trends in the hair care market, bringing these two trends together has received less attention. The development of natural hair styling formulas lags behind other product categories in the hair care market (Figure 2). Synthetic polymers such as


polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) continue to be among the most commonly used fixatives in the hair styling market. Attempts to introduce natural-based hair fixatives have often struggled with matching either the performance or optical clarity of synthetic materials. While it is not directly related to product performance, optical clarity is not a property to be overlooked. Many hair gels sold in the market today are clear, and future product launches will likely be held to the same standard. In addition to product performance,


consumers are becoming increasingly focused UK Brazil USA


on the concept of clean beauty. Clean beauty has been described as having four main pillars: 1) removing unnecessary ingredients; 2) focusing on the user and environmental safety; 3) thoughtfully designing products with the sustainability of the source and the ethics of the supply chain in mind; and 4) transparency in labeling.6 Retailer driven certification programs such


as Clean at Sephora and Conscious Beauty at Ulta Beauty have provided even greater momentum to the clean beauty movement. Simple formulations with easy-to-read ingredients that are safe for the environment (e.g. biodegradable) is where the market is headed.


China 51% 43% 39% 47%


of female hair styling product


users think it's most important that their hair styling routine is natural


of haircare product users would be


motivated to buy a haircare product with natural ingredients


of haircare product users show


interest in clean haircare products


of consumers are willing to spend more on a beauty or grooming


product that is


environmentally friendly


Figure 1: Global consumer preferences for natural hair care products 2,3,4 PERSONAL CARE June 2022


80.0% 70.0% 60.0% 50.0% 40.0% 30.0% 20.0% 10.0% 0.0%


Based on the lack of natural hair styling


polymers that address the performance needs and clean beauty expectations of today’s consumers, there is certainly room for more growth and innovation in the natural hair styling market. To address this need, Dow Personal Care has developed a natural hair styling ingredient called MaizeCare™ Clarity Polymer (INCI: Hydrolysed Corn Starch). MaizeCare Clarity Polymer is a bio-based,


biodegradable, 100% natural origin (ISO 16128) hair styling polymer obtained from non-GMO corn starch with excellent clarity in water-based formulas. MaizeCare Clarity Polymer will hereafter be referred to as Hydrolysed Corn Starch, or HCS. However, it is


72.3% 47.6% 39.9% 71.4% 75.6%


Hair Colourants


Treatment


Hair


Styling


Hair


Shampoo


Conditioner Figure 2: Hair care product launches in 2021 making natural ingredient claims5 www.personalcaremagazine.com


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