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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK
Phospholipids - nature’s skin care all-rounders
Yvonne Friedewald, Dr. Christoph Heidecke, Ingrid Vogel – Lipoid Kosmetik
Phospholipids are highly versatile materials offering both technical and physiological benefits for cosmetic formulations. They number among the body’s own building blocks and are essential constituents of the human cell membrane. These compounds are therefore highly biocompatible and benign, and hence predestined for use in superior high-end skin care products. Owing to their amphiphilic nature and their ability to interact with human skin, phospholipids can serve as active ingredients for skin protection and skin rejuvenation, as carrier systems for cosmetic active ingredients, and as skin friendly emulsifier systems.
Phospholipids support more efficient and better controlled transport of active ingredients One of the best-known applications of unsaturated phospholipids is the encapsulation of cosmetic active ingredients, ensuring more efficient and better controlled transport into the skin. Such encapsulation is accomplished by vesicles (so-called liposomes) whose outer membrane consists of a phospholipid double layer. The liposomes conventionally used for this purpose in cosmetic formulations have a particle size of 150–300 nm. The relatively large total surface area of the vesicles then comes into intimate contact with the surface of the skin, permitting mass transfer. The phase-transition temperature of unsaturated phospholipids lies below 0°C and the liposomes therefore
A Placebo ■ Natipide® Eco
25.0 20.0 15.0 10.0 5.0 0.0
ns ** ** ■
60.0 50.0 40.0 30.0 20.0 10.0 0.0
10 15 Skin depth (µm) 20 5 7 9 11 13 15 Skin depth (µm)
Figure 1: Natipide® Eco carries niacinamide deeper into the skin. (A) Natipide® Eco shows superior penetration properties in deeper skin layers (15µm and 20µm), represented by one subject as an example. (B) Natipide® Eco increases the niacinamide concentration by 50%. All subject with n=7; SEM; Student’s t-test versus untreated and between treatments; ns=p>0.05; **= p<0.01
PERSONAL CARE June 2022
www.personalcaremagazine.com 17 June 2022 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
Raman spectroscopy study. An unsaturated phospholipid-based formulation successfully increased the niacinamide concentration in the deeper skin layers by up to 50 % compared to a placebo formulation (Figure 1).
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exist in a liquid-crystalline state at skin temperature. These conditions permit optimum interaction of phospholipids with the stratum corneum and facilitate penetration of cosmetic actives into the skin, even into the dermis. This effect could be confirmed in an in vivo study. An enrichment of niacinamide up to a skin depth of 20 µm could be established by a double-blind
B
Phospholipids promote hyaluronic acid production and lower MMP-1 activity Unsaturated phospholipids also serve as efficient cosmetic active ingredients. They play an important role in the process of skin formation and skin rejuvenation and significantly counteract visible signs of skin aging on a cellular level. An in vitro study demonstrated that unsaturated phospholipids promote the body’s production of endogenous hyaluronic acid while at the same time lowering the MMP-1 activity – both of which are important factors in slowing down the physiological process of skin aging (Figure 2).
Phospholipids are biomimetic emulsifiers and improve skin feel Saturated (hydrogenated) phospholipids are excellent biomimetic emulsifiers. They not only allow the production of stable emulsions but also supply the skin with moisture, ensure a pleasant skin feel, and protect the skin. Internal tests showed saturated phospholipids to be excellent o/w emulsifiers for cosmetic formulations. Their high oil uptake capacity of up to 40 % and their applicability over a wide pH range of 4–8 make
+50%
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Niacinamide (a.u.)
Increased Niacinamide Conc. (%)
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