70 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
Biomimetic booster for sustainable sunscreen
Francesco Rastrelli, Guglielmo Bifulco, Chiara Rastrelli – Kalichem
Sunscreens are well known to prevent damage related to environmental stress, including UV-A and UV-B rays.1,2
Chronic and prolonged
exposure to sunlight causes damaging effects: UV-B are responsible for erythema and sunburn, while UV-A causes photo-ageing, acute and chronic photodermatosis and immunosuppression. UV filters are molecules or molecular
complexes that absorb, reflect, or disperse radiation and they represent the main protection measures against UV.3
They are
divided into two main types: organic (chemical) and inorganic (physical) filters, due to their molecular nature and mechanism of action. Chemical filters absorb radiations while physical filters are mineral particles that reflect and diffuse them.4
Sun filter concerns Some organic filters, when affected by radiation, could potentially produce dangerous chemical compounds known to be allergenic and to cross the skin barrier due to their molecular weight and lipophilic character;5
additional
studies prove their photo-instability that may cause damage induced by ROS formation.6 Moreover, their potential estrogenic effects are very controversial.7
Therefore, organic filters
are expected to induce more toxicity than inorganics. Besides safety concerns, some organic
UV filters contribute to contamination of the environment, specifically through their bio- accumulation in seawater with repercussions for aquatic ecosystems. The various methods of removing UV filters from the water are poorly effective and the best ones are very expensive.8,9 environment risk;10
hydroxyapatite) used in sun care formulation, acting with a mechanism comparable to inorganic filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, offers proven benefits in terms of multifunctionality, texture improvement, safety and low environmental impact.
Trends in the sun care industry Recent marketing researches highlight the below trends in the sun care industry.
Mineral filters report low being mineral substances,
they are preferred for their sea eco-system aspect. In order to find an appropriate compromise
between safety and functional parameters, the industry has addressed growing attention to sunscreen containing only inorganic mineral filters or based on a hybrid use of inorganic and organic filters with the target of reducing the overall amount of filters content in the formulation and take advantage of their synergistic UV screening features to increase SPF.11
This article explains how a SPF mineral
booster based on biomimetic hydroxyapatite (Apalight, by Kalichem; INCI name:
PERSONAL CARE June 2022
Mineral sunscreens and environment friendly products The global mineral sunscreen market is projected to show an incremental growth of US$ 1.8 billion by the end of 2030. According to Mintel, the demand for more eco-friendly mineral sunscreen continues to expand. In the 12 months to May 2021, 15% of sunscreen launches in Europe mentioned mineral/physical attributes versus 9% in the previous 12 months. Moreover, mineral sunscreen is set to gain further traction as more mass market players move into the segment.12 The demand for mineral sunscreens is
especially high among pregnant women and young children.13
Their chemical-free production
makes them suitable options for sensitive skin, baby care and pregnant women who go through a precarious phase that demands extra caution. Furthermore, mineral sunscreens work immediately, as opposed to chemical sunscreen
that can take about 20-30 minutes to act after application. For consumers with concerns, inorganic
filter-based formulations are supported by reassuring safety data.14
Additional push to
mineral sunscreen market expansion has come from a huge pool of social media influencers, Generation Z and millennials.13 Mintel highlights how fast-growing
environmental claims aim to boost consumer engagement with sustainable sun care. The market researchers note that brands are engaged in creating more eco-minded sunscreen (despite mixed consumer attitudes in this area) and believe a big focus on climate change and product recalls will shift attitudes.12 This concern for the environment goes hand in hand with research of sunscreen based on ingredients with ethical and transparent sourcing.
Multi-functionality through the use of natural solutions Manufacturers are focused on meeting consumer demand by introducing innovative and multifunctional sun protection products that promote nourishment and other benefits to the skin,15
especially through the use of natural
active ingredients. Mintel highlights added value opportunities in sun care, specifically opportunities for brands to blur sun care with skin care, e.g. focusing on ingredient potency,
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88
