COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE A 200 150 100 50 50 0 Control
PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G
LIPOID H 100 0 Control
PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G
LIPOID H 100
Figure 2: Phosphatidylcholine rejuvenates skin on a cellular level. (A) Significant increase of HA production by NHDFs after 72h of treatment with PHOSPHOLIPON® 90G or LIPOID H 100. (B) Significant decrease of MPP-1 activity by NHDFs after 72h of treatment with PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G or LIPOID H 100. n=3; Mean ± SD; Student’s unpaired t-test versus untreated; *= p<0.05, **=p<0.01
saturated phospholipids suitable for numerous cosmetic preparations. The pleasant skin feel left by saturated phospholipids is an additional benefit. Even the use of just small amounts has a significant effect. An application test with 20 female test persons of ages between 18 and 60 showed saturated phospholipids to be an ideal natural replacement for silicone oils. They leave the skin feeling very pleasantly silky and smooth (Figure 3) .
Improved barrier function, protection against moisture loss Owing to their unsurpassed compatibility and mildness, saturated phospholipids are particularly suitable for use in dermocosmetics, in products for sensitive or damaged skin, and in baby care or intimate care products. They support the repair and regeneration of the natural protective barrier of our skin by imitating the lamellar structure of the extracellular matrix; they accumulate in the stratum corneum and form a protective layer which prevents loss of moisture from the skin. The effect of Lipoid´s Skin Lipid Matrix® (SLM) on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) could be determined in a double-blind in vivo
A Spreadability Silkiness
3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0
1 = very 2 = slightly 3= not
30 +56% Oiliness 20 10 Stickiness 4% Dimethicon 350 ■ 1% LIPOID P 75-3 ■
Figure 3: Sensory assessment of a formulation with 1% LIPOID P 75-3 vs. 4% Dimethicon 350. The use of LIPOID P 75-3 results in an equally smooth and silky skin sensation as the use of Dimethicon 350 even at significantly lower use level
study. An SLM-based saturated phospholipid formulation was compared with a formulation containing glyceryl stearate citrate (GSC). The skin barrier was damaged with sodium lauryl sulfate and subsequently treated twice with
B 0 Placebo SLM
Figure 4: The formulation with SLM significantly decreased the transepidermal water loss in comparison to a placebo with glyceryl stearate citrate n=22, Mean ± SEM; *p<0.05
the appropriate formulation. The TEWL was determined with the aid of a Tewameter® about 12 hours after the second treatment. The SLM- based formulation significantly reduced the TEWL by 56 % compared to the phospholipid- free formulation (Figures 4 and 5).
In addition to all the above advantages of phospholipid products, most of them are based on non-GMO soy or sunflower lecithin, making them suitable for COSMOS- approved formulations. Moreover, not only are phospholipids produced from natural renewable resources but they are also completely biodegradable, making them a perfect fit for today’s zeitgeist with its ever-increasing emphasis on sustainability.
Figure 5: Skin with compromised (A) and intact (B) Iamellar lipid matrix; impact on repulsion of external aggressors (red arrows) and transepidermal water loss (blue arrows). Absence of essential skin lipids can lead to a damaged skin barrier
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June 2022 PERSONAL CARE * ** ** 100 * * B 150
7
PC
Production of HA (%) Relative to Control Conditions
MMP-1 Activity (%) Relative to Control Conditions
Reduction of TEWL (%)
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