HAIR STYLING
43
CONTROL (untreated)
In vitro Scalp protection (antioxidant effect, and modulation of inflammation and desquamation) The wild olive active ingredient captured
the free radical 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) by up to an 87%. Furthermore, it could inhibit Kallikrein-5 (KLK-5) activity by up to a 47%. KLK-5 is involved in inflammation and desquamation. Modulating its activity is of special interest in sensitive scalp.
Scalp reinforcing and regenerating - expression of collagen and proliferation of human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) Using quantitative RT-PCR (qRT-PCR), the gene expression of collagen type III was analysed. This collagen is most abundant on young skin and has the same function as Collagen Type I in adults. Therefore, by boosting collagen type III we can see a regenerating effect at the same time as a rejuvenating activity. Compared to untreated HDF, the wild
olive active ingredient increased the collagen type III gene expression sixfold, while the positive control, oestradiol, increased the gene expression by
fourfold.The cellular regenerating effect of the active was demonstrated by the time the proliferation of fibroblasts was boosted
25 20 15 10 5 0
-5 -10
PLACEBO treatment Figure 4: Delivery of the proteo-lipidic matrix into the hair cortex by the wild olive active ingredient
by 21% at 0.3% dosage, reaching up to 58% at 1.25% dosage. All these in vitro and ex vivo assays lead to a
very interesting conclusion: the active ingredient has the capacity to protect hair and scalp in front of different aggressions (oxidation, high temperature, excessive inflammatory response, etc.), at the same time it nourishes, reinforces and strengthens hair and scalp (stronger hair, increases hair volume, delivers CMC lipids into the hair cortex, and boosts collagen production and cellular regeneration on the scalp)
Clinical evaluation In vivo 1 A first assay was performed on a 20-volunteer panel, with sensitive scalp and aged 19-70 years old. The study was double-blind and placebo- controlled: the volunteers applied the placebo lotion on one half of the head, and the lotion containing a 0.5% of the active ingredient on the other. They applied these sprayable leave-on
lotions, and the initial measurements were compared with those made after one or four applications, once daily. After each application on dry hair, the lotions were left to act for 24 hours.
Several parameters were evaluated by
expert trichologists using a scale from one to five, and the average score of each half of the head was compared between the results before the test and after one and four applications, once daily. After only one application, the wild olive active ingredient improved all the average scores corresponding to the analyzed parameters (Figure 5). As the volunteers had sensitive scalps, the
initial degree of redness was quite remarkable. After four applications, the average scalp redness score decreased a 32% more with the wild olive active ingredient than with the placebo. This could be verified with micro-camera photography, where the active ingredient already reduced the scalp redness on some volunteers after the first application (Figure 6).
In vivo 2 In another double-blind, placebo-controlled in vivo test, carried out during 28 days on a panel of 15 volunteers aged 18-70, the effect of a lotion containing 1% wild olive active ingredient was analyzed. The lotions were applied twice daily on each half of the volunteer’s scalp. An analysis of the gene expression of
Versican and Collagen XVIIA was carried out
Placebo lotion ■ Lotion with 0.5% Elaya Renova™ ■ +22%
+14% +5% +7% +6% +15% +15%
Elaya Renova™ treatment
Figure 5: The wild olive active ingredient outperformed the placebo on various parameters after only one application, among which we can highlight volume, hydration, shine and softness
www.personalcaremagazine.com June 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Ease of detangling Combability Softness Manageability Volume Hydration Shine
% Variation average score vs initial measurement
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