TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
Fighting ‘inflammaging’: holy basil polyphenols
Garance Clauteaux - Laboratoires Expanscience
Holy basil is one of the most famous and respected medicinal plants in ayurvedic medicine, where it is named Tulsi. Its goal is to rebalance doshas (energies) to strengthen the connection between our mind and body. This very special plant has interested Laboratoires Expanscience in the struggle against ‘inflammaging’ effects on the skin.
What is inflammaging? Created from the contraction of ‘inflammation’ and ‘ageing’, the concept of inflammaging was developed in 2000 by Doctor Claudio Franceschi.1
low-grade and silent inflammatory condition due to epidermis cells ageing. The quantity of some inflammatory biomarkers rises in the body,2,3
Antigenic load and Environmental free radicals
Immune activation and tissue damage
Inflammation & repair
Further
Remodelling and
This is the hypothesis of a chronic,
which results in the spreading of a micro- inflammation in dermal and epidermal tissues. Inflammaging is the cause of different
conditions such as Alzheimer’s disease and arthrosis, and also of accelerated skin and hair ageing: wrinkles, sagging, dehydration, loss of complexion radiance and so on. Initially characterised by medical research, this phenomenon is now a trendy concept in the cosmetics industry, which is found through ‘anti-inflammaging’ marketing claims.
The exposome: booster of inflammaging The inflammaging phenomenon has mainly been described as the consequence of repeated exposure to external physical or chemical stresses that may be responsible for the induction of pro-inflammatory signaling. Every environmental exposure one encounters in their life, whether linked to pollutants or their lifestyle, is defined as the ‘exposome’.3 Exposome factors affect the mechanisms
regulating skin homeostasis and strongly contribute to the skin ageing. The impact of these factors and their interactions on the skin has been defined as the ‘skin-ageing exposome’.4 External factors such as UV irradiation,
tobacco and pollution are well known to affect molecular processes capable of modifying skin structures and leading to phenotypes characteristic of aged skin. Other, less extensively studied factors,
like lack of sleep, nutrition, stress, also play a recognized role in skin ageing. All of these factors can act independently or interact with each other to potentiate the processes of skin homeostasis impairment.4, 5
www.personalcaremagazine.com Inflammaging
release of pro-
inflammatory cytokines
Figure 1: Vicious circle of inflammaging
Outcomes of inflammaging on skin biological mechanisms Chronic ageing impacts skin biological mechanisms. Several results have been identified, as detailed below. ■ With age, the IL1α gene is more expressed in keratinocytes, which would appear to be the result of a persistent induction of an inflammatory signal in these cells. This pro-inflammatory environment facilitates the degradation of the extracellular matrix while destabilizing adaptive immunity.6 ■ The decrease in stratum corneum hydration with age may be accompanied by an increased production of cytokines by skin cells. Moreover, the rise in stratum corneum pH with age activates certain enzymes such as kallikreins, responsible for the breakdown of the barrier and the activation of the PAR2 receptor capable of inducing inflammation. ■ Senescent cells accumulate with age and, although unable to divide, remain metabolically active. They are the cause of an altered secretome (SASP - senescence- associated secretory phenotype), which contains pro-inflammatory cytokines capable of altering the cellular micro-environment.6 ■ Impaired mitochondrial function would seem to be accompanied by the release of fragments of mitochondrial DNA, recognized as danger signals capable of stimulating the immune system. Inflammation would therefore be an underlying cause of skin ageing associated with mitochondrial dysfunction.2, 7, 8 Thus, inflammaging works as a vicious circle
(Figure 1)9: pro-inflammatory factors generated by external stress or cell deregulation induce
tissue damage, via the activation of proteolytic enzymes responsible for dermal matrix degradation (MMPs) and ROS production, and maintain pro-inflammatory signaling to accelerate inflammaging and the appearance of signs of age.
This phenomenon associated with
chronological ageing is further exacerbated by exogenous or endogenous stresses that may contribute to exacerbating impaired skin homeostasis.
The birth of a cosmetic active: wellbeing and ayurveda The notion of wellbeing definitively reflects current trends: natural beauty, clean beauty, eco responsibility, green beauty and ‘in & out’ beauty. It stands for the idea of a balance between not just body and mind but also between body, mind and the environment. This trend impacts quite specifically the
market of mature skin. The watchword is no longer ‘fighting’ against ageing but to ‘alleviate’ them.10 Consumers want to be at peace with their age and its associated signs like wrinkles and sagging without feeling hung up by stigmatising claims. Ayurveda is a traditional type of medicine
and lifestyle originating from India and is considered the oldest holistic medicine in the world. It advocates the seeking of harmony and wellbeing through a connection between our mind and body which is represented by the three doshas: pitta (fire and water), kapha (earth and water) and vāta (space and air). Each dosha stands for a profile with its own physical, personality and emotional traits.
June 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Reactive oxygen species
Oxidative metabolism
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