NATURALS 79
cholesterol from cholesterol adulterated with BSE-bearing, animal-derived cholesterol is virtually impossible. The exceptional stability of the infectious agent and the impracticality of requiring full-proof traceability virtually requires that the only definitive way of eliminating such risks is to use cholesterol derived from non-animal sources.
Vegetal-derived cholesterol Relying on the fact that various
phytochemicals possess the intrinsic structure of cholesterol, scientists at Wilshire Technologies (WTI) undertook the development of a commercially viable route to AOF, plant-derived, semi-synthetic cholesterol from various sustainable plant precursors. The route that evolved has not only proven robust but provides a significant cost savings relative to other routes to AOF, vegetal-derived cholesterol. Over the past decade, the success of this process has resulted in WTI becoming the leading manufacturer of commercial scale, high- purity, animal-origin-free, vegetal-derived, USP/NF and EP-compliant cholesterol (PhytoChol®
). Through partnership with Evonik Group, PhytoChol® is now available to
formulators in the personal care industry. The ease of adulterating AOF, vegetal- derived, cholesterol with animal-derived cholesterol might offer an irresistible
opportunity for some to proffer adulterated or mislabeled material at cut-rate prices. For this reason, WTI offers unambiguous scientific validation of the vegetal-derived cholesterol’s origin. Thus, isotopic fractionation is a well-known technique for quantitatively distinguishing between the origin (available biosynthetic pathways) of natural product molecules. Accordingly, a ~20% difference is observed between the 13C/12C isotope ratio obtained for the vegetal cholesterol and that obtained for wool-grease-derived cholesterol, thereby providing unambiguous proof of the new ingredient’s vegetal origin and traceability to a C4 plant source and enabling formulators to be confident about the sourcing and quality of the cholesterol they use in their formulations.
Moisturisation momentum As reported in the international market research publication Euromonitor, retail sales of facial moisturisers are forecast to grow by 3.2% CAGR globally between 2018 and 2021. As consumers continue to demand effective moisturising solutions for their skin care regimens, the industry will need to continue to draw inspiration and technological expertise from adjacent industries. Originally conceived and developed to serve the needs of
biopharma industry, PhytoChol® serves as a
continuing example of the benefits of such technological cross-overs. With this ingredient, formulators can finally access the time-tested benefits of cholesterol from a natural source free of health-risk concerns, and consumers can enjoy a holistic, Pro- Ageing solution that enables them to age more gracefully through enhanced skin moisturisation supported by the appearance of a healthier skin barrier.
PC
References 1 Cholesterol. Wikipedia on March 15, 2018. 2 Wertz P. Lipids and barrier function of the skin, Acta Derm Venereol 2000; 208: 7-11.
3 Berardesca E, Farage M, Maibach H. Sensitive skin: An overview. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013;35:2–8.
4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Cholesterol. J. Am Col Tox. 1986;5:5.
5 Chadwich M. Why Cholesterol is the new best thing for your complexion, Shape Online. May 20, 2016.
6 Brosche T, Dressler S, Platt D. Age-associated changes in integral cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate concentrations in human scalp hair and finger nail clippings, Aging (Milano). 2001; 13(2):131-8.
7 Mintel Group. Global New Product Database. 8 Jiang Z, De La Cruz J. Appearance benefits of skin moisturization, Skin Res Technol. 2011; 17(1):51-5.
June 2018 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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