ANTI-AGEING 27
Natural alternatives for retinoic-acid-like anti-ageing
n Stefan Hettwer, Emina Besic Gyenge, Brigit Suter, Sandra Breitenbach, Barbara Obermayer – Rahn, Switzerland
Use of retinoic acid is the most powerful anti-acne treatment we know so far. It re- programmes sebocytes and keratinocytes to regulate their genes back to the normal level.1
Thus, sebum production is reduced
and hyper-keratinisation is diminished. However, retinoic acid is banned for cosmetic use in the EU and therefore, other vitamin A derivatives are used (retinoids). These derivatives are themselves inactive but are converted to retinoic acid in the tissues.2
Besides the use in anti-acne
products, retinoids are powerful anti-ageing active ingredients as it was found that they have greater efficacy in wrinkle reduction and skin smoothing.3
Obviously, the use of
retinoids has an influence on the biochemistry and metabolism of skin cells. They regulate numerous genes important for the skin’s appearance. For example, collagen genes are upregulated and genes responsible for fatty acid synthesis and inflammation are downregulated. In this way, retinoids not only reduce skin impurities but also reduce wrinkles and fine lines leading to a rejuvenation effect.
o o
Isoflavone Abstract
Use of vitamin A derivatives - the retinoids - is common in cosmetic formulations targeting the anti-ageing area. While retinoid acid is banned in the European Union as a cosmetic ingredient, other retinoids such as retinol are permitted. However, retinoids can provoke unwanted effects such as dry and itchy skin, especially when exposed to sunlight. Here we show that an alternative, namely natural bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis, is able to bind the target receptors of retinoic acid and create retinoid- acid-like efficacy in vivo.
However, retinoids may lead to dry skin due to the sebum regulating function, which may also lead to skin irritations in some circumstances. Therefore, the cosmetic industry is seeking new mild ingredients with retinoid function and excellent skin compatibility. As an alternative, bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis, the active principle of Seboclear-MP, can fill this gap. Originally designed to treat acne-prone skin, the bioflavonoids of Seboclear-MP (INCI: Propanediol, Bioflavonoids) are able to bind to the nuclear receptors RAR (retinoic acid receptor) and RXR (retinoic X receptor) to turn back the cellular ageing clock.4
n Active 0.1% n Active 0.01% R Prenyl residue HO O OH O 6,8-Diprenylorobol
OH OH
Figure 1: Maclura cochinchinensis leaves contain several bioflavones in form of prenylated isoflavones. Right: 6,8-Diprenylorobol consists of the isoflavone core building block (black) with two prenyl side chains (blue) and four hydroxyl groups (grey) attached to the aromatic rings.
June 2018
30 25 20 15 10 5 0
RXRa Mean + SEM; n=2
The bioflavonoids from M. cochinchinensis are isolated by extraction of the leaves of the shrub with propanediol and further purification to produce Seboclear-MP. M. cochinchinensis, also known as cockspur thorn, grows commonly in the forests of Southeast Asia but is also widespread in Northern Australia and East Africa. It is a branched, thorny shrub, rambling or even climbing on neighbouring vegetation. In the days before synthetic dyes, the plant was used in the traditional ‘soga-batik’ in Indonesia. The fruits of M. cochinchinensis are edible and the young leaves of the plant can be eaten raw. The extract from the roots of M. cochinchinensis is known as Chuanposhi in China; it is used in folk medicine for the treatment of humid jaundice, gastric carcinoma, dysmenorrhea, scabies and bruising.5
Extensive RARa
Figure 2: Bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis possess retinol-like activity. A concentration-dependent binding to the receptors sensitive to retinoid acid (RAR and RXR) was observed. The assay suggests an activation of the gene expression of RAR/RXR-controlled genes upon application of the active ingredient.
investigations have attempted to characterise the secondary plant metabolites in the extracts of the roots of Maclura. However, little was known about the active ingredients in the leaves of the shrub. Seboclear-MP is the extract of M. cochinchinensis leaves with propanediol. We could identify the prenylated isoflavones isolupalbigenin, 6,8- diprenylorobol and 6,8-diprenylgenistein as main ingredients. They have in common the isoflavone core, with two prenyl residues attached at different positions on that core (Fig 1). Isoflavones, a subclass of the bioflavonoids, are secondary plant metabolites that defend the plant against pathogens. They are typically produced by the Fabaceae plant family (clover, beans). Highly processed foods made from
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