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consumers still challenge brands for more transparency. For instance, 74% of US consumers want more clarity in food and drink ingredients (source: Lightspeed/Mintel). Clean labeling is a significant part of this evolution and consists in prioritising food products with simple and recognisable ingredients and more than a third of the population in France, Germany, Italy, Spain, and Poland regularly check the product composition on the pack (source: Lightspeed/Mintel). “Free-from” claims supporting clean label positioning are used to state what ingredients or additives are not used. However, today, food producers have to look beyond the natural claims and include information about how the product is made, incorporating allegations on ethics, environment, process, sourcing, and packaging. These demands ring true for beauty care as well and brands will need to justify the claims they make by providing truthful proofs. Food manufacturers are required to look beyond the regulation and current consumers’ demand to be ahead of tomorrow’s market requirements as will the beauty and personal care sector. Use of preservatives declined in the food & drinks industry, but not in beauty; the number of food products launched containing preservatives decreased from 36% to 33% in the last five years, while it remained steady at an average rate of 72% for personal care products (source: Lightspeed/Mintel). Ingredient safety is now critical in the beauty industry too as it is heavily influenced from the food market. More than 78% of personal care consumers in France, Germany, Italy, and Spain interviewed by Lightspeed state that brands should make it clearer how safe their ingredients are. It is essential for cosmetics and personal care manufacturers to endorse this trend and offer full transparency to their customers. They have the knowledge and expertise to share and promote the right information about our industry, and it is still time to take the lead in the era of full-truth.
Minimalist positioning is one answer to the customers’ demand. It will also help manufacturers with economic gain thanks to a rationalisation of raw materials and inventory, but also to a shorter production process reducing the environmental impact. Beauty brands and ingredient producers
are now internally challenging their own brands or expanding through acquisition and investment to ensure they have something to offer, therefore stripping products back to their essentials and leaving out superfluous ingredients to focus on just a few hero products. Today, cosmopolitan women and men are looking for a responsible and educated
June 2018
way to consume, in general, they are searching for: l Transparency on ingredients with traceability and sustainability
l Simplicity and clarity on labels and claims l Simple formulations with natural and useful ingredients
l Responsible & ethical brands l Waste reduction and recycling Univar, a specialty ingredient distributor, is constantly adding to its eco-responsible portfolio in anticipation of growing market demand. The range of responsible ingredients includes products from Earthoil, Cargill Beauty, Dow, Hallstar, KAO, Elevance, Down Under Enterprises, and Colonial Chemicals. The recent investments in both technical and marketing capabilities demonstrate how they are striving to deliver not only exceptional ingredients but accompany clients with their innovations through illustrative formulation concepts and on- demand technical support. The Technical Excellence Centers, located in Versailles, France, and Milan, Italy, partner with industry leading suppliers to help brands create truly unique products. The Univar innovation platform, SIM (Strategic Ingredient Marketing Campaigns), include formulas in line with market trends showcasing new and hero ingredients from their curated portfolio. The SIM SEVEN focuses on minimalist beauty routines of formulas with less than 10 INCI names, efficient processes to win time and conserve energy and highlights authentic claims that can be easily added into any beauty kit. Two examples are below.
Four Beauty sleep in a bottle! Inspired by Korean
sleeping packs, this peachy water gel follows tradition and revives your skin with a rich cocktail of actives all night long. Apply on your face right before going to bed and enjoy your dewy, plumped skin and refreshed glow in the morning. This cold process formula yields a fluid light pink gel.
Key ingredients:
Dow Aculyn 38 Polymer is a rheology modifier that gives a smooth and soft jelly texture. It also has good suspension properties to stabilise the oil and the clay. You can create a texture from fluid and smooth to rich and tacky according to the pH of the formula. It is supplied as a white liquid dispersion.
Dow Methocel 40-0101 PCG is a rheology modifier that increases the viscosity and brings a cushion feel to the product. It also reduces tackiness. It is a white powder. Angus Tris Amino Ultra PC is a multifunctional additive with an excellent safety profile. It is used in this formula to neutralise the Aculyn 38 Polymer and stabilise the pH over time. It also helps to disperse the Methocel 40-0101 PCG. It is supplied as a white liquid dispersion. Dow Polyox WSR 205 is a high molecular weight polymer that has excellent compatibility in skin care formulations. It improves spreadability and slipperiness of the product for an enhanced sensorial experience. It is supplied as a white powder. Baerlocher Lyophilized Royal Jelly Powder is an active ingredient, lyophilized to ensure efficiency. It is very nourishing for the skin as it contains vitamins and proteins, a nutritive cocktail for the skin. Supplied as a yellow powder. Evonik L-Arginine L-Aspartate is an
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
@Rido/folio
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