52 MARINE INGREDIENTS
to achieve better incomes and living standards in a way that will accelerate progress towards a sustainable and transparent global red seaweed supply chain by focusing Cargill’s investments and efforts across four areas: empower seaweed producers; improve production and harvesting practices; support communities; create partnerships with suppliers and industry organisations. The result would be a thriving red seaweed sector for generations to come. The functionality of carrageenans was first discovered more than six hundred years ago. In the Middle Ages, Irish moss was used in Carraghen on the south Irish coast for medicinal and food purposes. It was particularly known for its unique property of gelling milk. Also on the coasts of Normandy and Brittany in France it was used for its gelling properties. With bleached lichen or ‘goémon blanc’ (blanc- mange), flans were made simply by cooking seaweed in milk.
It was not until after the Second World
War, however, that extracts were manufactured industrially. Although originally only extracted from Irish moss, today Carrageenans are manufactured from numerous red seaweed species. In the cosmetics industry it has been used in toothpaste, hair gels.
Codif
Personal Care spoke with Romuald Vallée, scientific and industrial director of Codif Technologie Naturelle about their approach to new product development: “Observing Nature first, respecting it second and how we can collaborate with Nature. We do not use natural resources, we collaborate with Nature and this is the main idea we have to keep in mind.”
And on the subject of consumer demand for marine ingredients, he added: “Of course - more than ever! People are looking for safe, Earth-friendly and innovative ingredients. Only the sea can now give this because everything is still virgin in the sea. 90% of the life in the ocean is microscopic and we only know 1% of this biomass!”
At in-cosmetics Global, Codif
Technologie Naturelle was promoting new ingredient Capiguard. Capiguard consists of a depolymerised marine carrageenan using a unique and patented process – HTAC technology. HydroThermolysis ACcelerated by supercritical CO2 is a green process that can depolymerise molecules without using solvents or enzymes and that does not create any waste. By using this technology, Codif has developed an active ingredient made up of a polysaccharide, which acts at the surface of the hair cuticle to protect and repair it.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE The carrageenan is extracted from the
red algae Furcellaria lumbricalis. This algae is very common in the Baltic Sea, a prehistoric proglacial lake distinguished by its low salinity, since it is fed from snowmelt water and is covered by ice in winter. The cuticle is the hair’s first line of defence against pollution, as well as mechanical and chemical stress. A change to the cuticle causes stress factors such as particles of pollution, free radicals or chemical molecules to penetrate inside the fibre and damage the hair, making it easy to break. It is therefore critical to keep the cuticle intact so as not to damage the quality of the hair.
Every day the hair is exposed to external attack such as pollution particles that stick to its surface then penetrate the fibre causing damage. Regular shampoo is not sufficient to remove them. If Capiguard is added, shampoo can then depollute and remove up to 95% of such particles. These external agents also promote oxidation and particularly carbonylation of hair proteins, rendering the cuticle-forming keratins non-functional. Capiguard protects 19% against carbonylation induced by UVA and pollution. Furthermore, when Capiguard is used to clean the hair it repairs and smooths the cuticle. The cuticle of hair that has been damaged is repaired and hairdressing is made easier.
Natura-Tec
At in-cosmetics Global, Personal Care also spoke with Pascale Goyat, marketing manager at Natura-Tec, to discuss the company’s approach to marine ingredient development. We first talked about Natura- Tec’s procedure for selecting the source
material.
“As of today the estimation of the number of different species found in the oceans, rivers and lakes is between 200,000 to 7 million. The potential is huge, especially considering that each species is producing its own unique and sometimes rare mix of compounds. Natura-Tec has been involved in microalgae research and biomass production for almost a decade now. “Scientists today evaluate that only 10% of the species
are actually identified and only a few are produced on an industrial scale for mainly the food, aquaculture or biodiesel industry.
From a general point of view, we can characterises microalgae species based on their origin, structure and composition. For example some species have high protein content, which is mainly of interest to the food and nutraceutical industry (i.e. spiruline or chlorella as protein supplements) or as a source of amino acids which act primarily as water-binding agents and contribute to peptide metabolism. “Some have antioxidant, anti-ageing and wound-healing properties thanks to their rich carotenoids content. “The presence of lipids in microalgae is also important, their composition varies with the species however they are often rich in long chain fatty acids like C20 or C22 and are a well-known source of omega 3 and can also contain omega 6.
“Some strains contain carbohydrates, which includes sugars starches and fibres. These components can play a role in skin hydration and are strong conditioning substances. They are known to absorb and retain water, particularly when their basic molecules form polysaccharides of which some microalgae species can synthetize significant quantities. Exopolysaccharides in particular represent a much more effective renewable and sustainable alternative to hyaluronic acid. You should also not forget minerals, vitamins and sterols content. The latter is also a valuable source of ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Microalgae offer a potentially infinite variety of beneficial actives to the epidermis. From a specific strain that we choose carefully for its chemical composition for a specific application, we first grow an inoculum at laboratory scale and then we proceed to industrial scale up finishing with their cultivation in controlled conditions. The time of cultivation varies and can extend to several months for certain delicate species; hence the importance of being located in a sunny region for our microalgae farming site. We then lyophilize the biomass to better preserve the microalgae structure integrity
June 2018
@marinafrost/Fotolia
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