44 MARINE INGREDIENTS
embellish skin complexion. They demonstrated that the specific lipids composition from the red micro algae Phaeodactylum tricornutum has a very high capability to stimulate the skin proteasome in both a preventive and curative effect under a serious UV exposure. This regulation acts at the epigenetic level (regulation of a specific miRNA) and genetic level (action on proteasome regulators). As a consequence, the enzymatic activities of the proteasome are restored, inducing a direct detoxification of cells and skin to reverse dull skin appearance. At the clinical level, Megassane has been tested on smoking volunteers with a very dull and grey skin. After 56 days of treatment, a +200% improvement of their skin tone has been observed: their skin shows more vivid colour and a brilliant complexion. Megassane acts as a natural highlighter by removing skin dullness, giving natural results equivalent to makeup and providing a healthier look. Anne Humeau, marine biotechnology
manager, said: “Megassane is a very precious marine extract, containing a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids essential to the health of our skin. By acting directly on the proteasome, Megassane is the first active ingredient derived from microalgae that can detoxify our skin and give it back light and radiance. It is a real step forward in skin care based on Nobel prize awarded researches on proteasome, and we are honoured to bring such great added value to our customers.” Lessonia has launched Healthyskin, a new active for a healthy looking skin after several years of partnership with the marine glycobiology research brand of CNRS. With Healthyskin, Lessonia offers an active ingredient with metabolic and innovative paths. This active is a concrete and scientific transposition of the health & well-ageing trend as it aims to restore the physiological mechanisms of skin health. Indeed, there has been an observed shift in the concept of the ageing. The tide has turned towards an acceptance of our age and of its signs on the skin. Customers do not necessarily look to appear younger anymore, but want to be in harmony with their age. Healthyskin is a scientific translation of this on-trend concept. Healthyskin is the third marine active
ingredient developed by Lessonia and was launched at in-cosmetics Global this year. Healthyskin restores healthy epidermal physiological mechanisms for a visibly younger and healthier appearance: By reinforcing the cutaneous barrier and hydration. The skin fully recovers its barrier function ensuring optimal preservation of water content. A clinical test against placebo shows that the hydration and the barrier function are improved (+16.50 %
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
after 28 days (p<0.001). By improving the epidermis renewal. It boosts all processes essential to proper epidermal reconstruction : differentiation, cornification and desquamation. A clinical test shows that 1% Healthyskin improves the skin renewal, that is more than doubled in just 4 days (p<0.01). By improving the skin texture. A perfect smooth skin is restored. Another clinical test shows that 1% Healthyskin decreases the skin microrelief, up to – 42.9% after 28 days (p<0.02)
The Agua Amarga salt marsh in Costa Blanca, Alicante (Spain) is the origin of Cellynkage marine ingredient from Lipotec (INCI name: Propanediol, Water (Aqua), Saccharide Isomerate) consists of an exopolysaccharide (EPS) obtained through biotechnology from the microorganism Halomonas eurihalina inhabiting that geographical area. The ingredient is known to help improve the skin intercellular signalling exchange, through direct communication via gap junctions and also through crosstalk, to restore the loss of homeostasis in both mature and menopausal skin The rejuvenating effect was tested on 20 menopausal women who applied a cream containing 2% of a solution with saccharide isomerate, twice a day for 56 days. At the end of the treatment, the ingredient showed to increase epidermal thickness by 15% (p<0.05) and collagen density by 2.4%. It also resulted in an improvement of 113% in microrelief structure compared to placebo, for a more
regular meshing and better-organised appearance. Finally, a significant improvement in skin homogeneity of 7.9% (p<0.01) was obtained, indicating a decrease in irregularities that worsen the skin’s smoothness. Also from Lipotec is Lumicease blue
ingredient. Obtained via ferment extract through biotechnology from a radiation- resistant microorganism, Lumicease blue ingredient activates the epidermal photosensors and prepares, protects and repairs the skin from solar and artificial blue light-induced damage, helping to minimise the main signs of digital and photoageing. Blue light can be artificially emitted by
screens from electronic devices and can negatively impact our skin’s appearance. To protect itself from light-induced damage, the skin adapts by developing biological mechanisms that increase resistance to light. In order to detect light, opsins, which are the main photoreceptors of the eye with a key role in light perception, have also been detected on the skin. They could allow the skin to act as a sensory system for light, helping increase alertness and protection. Lumicease blue ingredient activates opsins on the skin and promotes adaptive responses such as the induction of lipid accumulation, DNA repair pathways and antioxidant defences, which help prepare the skin for future exposure to light. The ingredient prepares, protects and repairs the skin from solar and artificial blue light-induced damage and minimises the main signs of photoageing, spots and wrinkles.
PC June 2018
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