68 HAIR TREATMENT
is exposed to bleach. Increased levels of cysteic acid are hallmarks of hair damage. Equivalent damage factor (EDF) is calculated by taking the ratio of the 1041 cm-1
and 1076 cm-1 peak height values
from IR spectra. The peak at 1041 cm-1 correspond to the S=O band in cysteic acid, while the peak at 1076 cm-1 is from the S-S bond of cystine. It should be noted that in the overall hair fibre, the structures with the highest percentage of cystine are located in the lamellar layers of the cuticle. However, the greatest quantity of cystine is in the hair cortex, specifically in the matrix region. In any event, the IR data were used to calculate EDF values, which increase as a result of increased damage to the hair fibre.
Protecting the integrity of the structural helix
DSC analysis evaluates the integrity of protein structure of hair fibres as measured by the temperature of denaturation (TD enthalpy (ΔHD
). ΔHD Figure 6
) and the denaturation is indicative of the
amount and structural integrity of the α-helical component in the intermediate filaments of human hair.2 demonstrates how ΔHD
decreases with
increasing hair damage. However, after two and three bleach applications, hair samples that were treated with bleach mixture containing the hair protecting molecule showed significantly less decrease in ΔHD
100
3x Bleached - Fiberhance BM 0.978934 492.704 01.365 50 0 Shape Scale AD* F C
3x Bleached Control 80 0.831786 315.386 0.548 49 0
60
40
20
0 0 500 1000 Number of cycle to break Figure 4: Cyclic fatigue testing of hair treated with FiberHance BM compared to a control. than the control. As such,
it can be inferred that the hair protecting molecule mitigates the damage to the α- helical material, ultimately preventing the denaturation of the intermediate filament associated proteins.
Conclusion FiberHance BM is a novel saccharide-based 3.5 3 3.16% 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 -0.08 0 Control virgin -0.5 Bleached 3x control
Bleached 3x added fiberHance
2.62%
molecule that protects the integrity of the hair structure during the bleaching process. Its small size allows for penetration into the hair cortex, while multiple hydroxyl groups form hydrogen bonds to act as crosslinking agents to restore and stabilise the hair structure. When added to bleach/peroxide mixture at a 1% solids level, FiberHance BM mitigates damage to the cuticle and cortex, and helps keep the α-helical structure of hair intact without interfering with the bleaching process. As this study shows, this novel molecule should be included during reactive hair treatments, such as bleaches, to prevent and reduce hair damage. Further work to demonstrate hair fibre
repair with the use of post-bleaching products (shampoo, conditioner, and treatment regimen) is in progress.
18.00 17.00 16.00 15.00 14.00 13.00 12.00 11.00 10.00 9.00 8.00 7.00 6.00 5.00 4.00
Figure 5: Comparing EDF values for bleached hair. Adding 1% active FiberHance BM to the bleach/peroxide mixture significantly reduced the internal damage to hair fibres.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Caucasian Virgin brown hair
Figure 6: ∆HD Bleached hair Control Bleached hair – with
HPgluconamide/HPammonium gluconate
- denaturation enthalpy for the bleached hair samples. June 2018 PC
References 1 M. Franzke, D. Popplewell, D. Tran, E.-J. De Feij, and E. Everaert, Sugar based ingredient for hair strengthening, Personal Care Magazine Europe, September, 53-57 (2017).
2 F.-J. Wortmann, C. Sprigob, and G. Sendelbach, Investigations of cosmetically treated human hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water, J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 219-228 (2002).
3 S.B. Hornby, Cyclic testing: demonstrating conditioner benefits on damaged hair, Cosmet. & Toilet., 116(12), 35-39 (2001).
4 S.B. Hornby, N.J.P. Winsey, and S.P. Bucknell, New techniques to capture viscoelastic changes in hair induced by mechanical stress, IFSCC Mag., 5(2), 93-97 (2002).
5 T.A. Evans, Fatigue testing of hair—a statistical approach to hair breakage, J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 599-616 (2009).
1500 2000
Decreasing damage EDF
Survival rate (%)
∆HD
(J/g)
bleached 2x bleached
1x bleached 3x bleached 2x bleached 1x bleached
3x
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