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10 IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL REVIEW


Return to Amsterdam hailed a success


n Lesley Foottit – in-cosmetics, UK Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care


The 2018 edition of the event attracted 9,392 unique visitors, 7% more than last year’s show in London, with international attendance increasing by 19% to account for 88% of all visitors. Major cosmetic manufacturers, such as Unilever, Estée Lauder, Coty, L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble and Johnson & Johnson, as well as the indie sector, gathered to identify new ingredients and learn about the trends set to shape their future NPD. The daily re-admittance figures underlined the industry’s commitment to the show. Over the three days, in-cosmetics Global recorded a significant growth in total attendance with 18,207 visitors, up from 16,319 in London – a 12% increase.


Future gazing at in-cosmetics The in-cosmetics Global Marketing Trends programme this year saw speakers from Euromonitor International, PeclersParis and Mintel provide cosmetic manufacturers with invaluable insights into current consumer preferences. With the world’s population getting


older, Kseniia Galenytska, a senior analyst for beauty and fashion at Euromonitor International, revealed that brands should be focusing on developing products that


prevent ageing, rather than treating the consequences. She said: “Products that protect from sun damage and/or pollution, fight free radicals, minimise pores, provide anti- oxidants and prevent wrinkles or fine lines are becoming increasingly popular across all ages. It’s because consumers are adopting preventative regimes that counter general lifestyle aggressors.” Additionally, Mariel Brown, director of


futures at Seymourpowell, presented the company’s latest research into the global beauty market. She highlighted how brands can take advantage of consumers’ penchant for personalisation and DIY cosmetics, by creating products that complement unique styles.


Formulating success Aside from revealing the latest trends, in- cosmetics Global enabled R&D teams to source ingredients and expand their knowledge. This year featured three Technical Seminars theatres, which hosted dozens of sessions from leading suppliers who revealed the science and research behind their ingredients. Each session drew a packed theatre, with seminars focusing on the skin microbiome among the most


popular. Other noteworthy sessions included: l Sensient Cosmetic Technologies’ session that introduced a new technology to protect colour and scent in fine fragrances.


l Lipotrue’s presentation on decoding wrinkles that highlighted how to utilise marine-derived active ingredients from near Greenland.


l Givaudan who presented their product BisaboLife, a highly natural and sustainable biotech produced by their innovative fermentation process. Meanwhile, the two Formulation Labs hosted numerous live demonstrations by exhibitors and training sessions by the Institute of Personal Care Science. The purpose-built laboratories showed those responsible for developing new beauty products techniques that could aid the NPD process. A record number of professionals signed up to learn from the teams behind the world’s most innovative ingredients. These included: l Kobo, which educated delegates about creating intense colour liquid lipstick with novel texture and an optimised process design. Due to concentrated pigmentary dispersions, the supplier enables manufacturers to formulate liquid lipsticks with intense colours.


l Ashland, which demonstrated its micellar cleanse and moisturising shampoo. The product was developed without parabens or silicones, which made it particularly on trend as consumers become increasingly concerned regarding the additives present in their products. A brand new programme for R&D


professionals, run by technical consultant Rouah Al-Wakeel, took delegates on a series of Future of Anti-Ageing and Biotechnology Actives tours. Beginning at the show’s Innovation Zone, the Future of Anti-Ageing tour visited Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Novacap, Inabata and Clariant to discover their latest innovations designed to prevent the ageing process.


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE June 2018


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