46 MARINE INGREDIENTS
Brightening via fucoidan and marine polyphenols
n Claire Smoorenburg, Dr J Helen Fitton - Marinova, Australia
Marine organisms are rich sources of structurally diverse biologically active compounds with great cosmeceutical potential.1
Fucoidan – a complex
polysaccharide naturally found in the cell walls of brown seaweeds – is a specialised compound rapidly growing in recognition for its unique cosmetic properties. Fucoidans are the most abundant and most commercially available class of marine polysaccharides with bioactive potential.1 They are highly branched and heterodisperse molecules with varying degrees of sulfation and acetylation. Fucoidans differ greatly in their molecular structure and bioactivity according to the seaweed species from which they are derived and their extraction method. In nature, fucoidan plays an essential
role in protecting seaweed from marine- borne pathogens and environmental stresses. Fucoidan complements the activity of other algal compounds, including marine polyphenols. Similar to fucoidan, polyphenols - also known as phlorotannins - are found in brown algae. Just like a bioactive ‘sunscreen’ for seaweed, fucoidan and polyphenols work together to create a defensive barrier between the plant’s cells and damaging UV rays, pathogens and pollutants. The remarkable properties of fucoidan extend into human health, with over 1,600
scientific papers attesting to the safety and bioactivity of this unique marine compound. Studies demonstrate that fucoidan exhibits diverse range of benefits in human health, showing significant potential in gastrointestinal, anti-viral,
n Maritech Bright n Placebo
13 12 11 10 9 8
0 0.1 Figure 1: Increase of skin brightness. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 15 Time in days 30 60
immune modulatory, anti-inflammatory and complementary oncology applications.2 In addition, fucoidan has shown diverse and powerful therapeutic effects on the skin at very low concentrations. Due to its ability to form a protective, hydrating layer when applied topically to the skin, fucoidans have been investigated in recent years for the development of novel cosmetic products.3 Research highlights the wide-ranging effects of fucoidan in skin care and cosmetics, which include skin brightening, UV protection, enzyme inhibition and anti- microbial activity.4
Polyphenols also have profound
dermatological properties, such as skin whitening, anti-wrinkling and potent antioxidant effects. They are well known for their ability to reduce damage caused by UV radiation and inhibit age-causing enzymes.
Leading Australian biotechnology
company, Marinova Pty Ltd, has achieved the successful commercial-scale extraction
June 2018
Gloss
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