32 SKIN CARE
When less is more, effective and multifunctional
n Arnita Wofford, Ghislaine Vigier – Univar, EMEA
Clean beauty through minimalist formulas first seen in dermocosmetics brands, is now spreading to all segments, including luxury and masstige/mass market. Formulators are looking for multifunctional, ultra- performing and eco-responsible ingredients to overcome this new challenge. First developed for sensitive skin, minimalist formulas are now expanding to a broader market. Minimalism is a formulation challenge consisting in reducing the number of INCI names used in a product to 10 or less. For consumers, minimalism is a simple and clear formulation approach highlighting the essential properties, origins, benefits, and percentages of the materials as consumers are still demanding maximum efficacy even though the ingredients have been pared down. This new purchasing pattern is motivated not only by self-care but also by environmental and animal rights causes, as well as the desire to be informed and educated about product purchase. It is driving today’s consumers’ purchase behaviour; 56% of US consumers have stopped buying products from brands/retailers if they believe they are unethical (source: The Ethical Consumer US 2015).
Urban lifestyles lead to an increasing number of people suffering from sensitive skin, sleep deprivation, emotional or physical stress, and travel. Pollution and excess sun exposure are also affecting the skin. One in two women across the world declares having sensitive skin (source: Mintel). More than 60% of men aged 25-34 in France, Italy, and Spain agree the effects of pollution on the skin are worrying and sensitising ingredients in personal care formulas can worsen the situation. The more elements added, the higher the risk for sensitive skin to react. Therefore, this consumer group is looking for minimalist and efficient products to get the best of both worlds.
These consumers are also increasingly striving for more simplicity on a global scale: a simple lifestyle, clean packaging, straightforward claims, and uncomplicated ingredient names for better clarity and
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
understanding. Mintel research shows that 58% of French female facial product users usually follow a simple skin care regime so that their skin is not overwhelmed. Consumers are moving from over- complicated routines to more curated beauty and are looking for easy and efficient products that align with their overall focus on health. They would also prefer to have a better understanding of the ingredient list and their individual role in the formula.
Self-education on formulations,
ingredients, and their benefits are all supported by access to fast technology making knowledge, once reserved for ‘industry experts,’ accessible to all. For instance, smartphone applications now allow consumers to scan product bar-codes and obtain formula content in real-time as
well as the role of each ingredient. These apps also rate the “perceived and trending’ health impact of each component. One of the most noted smartphone applications reported 6,180,473 unique product scans in 2016 alone. New technologies build awareness in beauty and personal care through an easy understanding of the formula; nonetheless, the information is not always accurate. This new era of open- information is undoubtedly a challenge for producers; however, these new technologies could also be used as an opportunity to engage and connect with consumers, to build trust and brand commitment through an authentic and honest exchange.
The food industry has paved the way and pioneered this movement with a strong focus on health and wellbeing; although
June 2018
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