30 ANTI-AGEING
Conclusion Cosmetic treatments with retinoic acid are prohibited in the European Union and may only be prescribed as treatments by dermatologists. Because of this, the cosmetic industry uses other vitamin A derivatives such as retinol, which, according to recent study data, can have similar benefits but is less active than retinoic acid.10 However, retinoid treatment can have side effects such as dry skin accompanied with skin reddening and even itchy skin. The latter may be due to the TRPV1 receptor, which is known to be activated by retinoids and which causes prolonged inflammatory states of the skin as well as sensory hypersensitivity.11
Therefore, mild treatments
taking advantage of the mode of action without the unwanted irritant potential of retinoic acid are highly appreciated. Vitamin A and related retinoic acid derivatives activate the RAR/RXR receptor complex. This regulates a number of genes that control sebum production of the sebaceous gland and the proliferation of keratinocytes. Regulation of the RAR/RXR system is a long- term approach, which is considered to be most effective in the reduction of acne but also in anti-ageing. Active ingredients, which can activate the RAR/RXR receptor complex to facilitate the correct gene expression of the cells without creating unwanted effects by activating several skin receptors, are highly appreciated. Seboclear-MP, consisting of bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis is a new natural cosmetic active ingredient filling this gap: Besides being an excellent anti-acne active ingredient (not shown here), it brings the same anti-ageing efficacy as a retinoid without any sign of unwanted effects. In vitro toxicological investigations did not reveal any deleterious effects. The formulation with 3% Seboclear-MP was very well tolerated in multiple in vivo studies with
D28 Evenness
Wrinkles nasolabial
30 25 20 15 10 5
n =21 Roughness
Wrinkles nasolabial
n Placebo n Active 3% 0 -10 -20 -30 -40 -50 -60 Crow’s feet Nasolabial
Figure 8: Bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis visually improved the wrinkle appearance as judged by a dermatologist. Improvements in the crow’s feet area and of the nasolabial fold were highly significant over baseline and the placebo. Wilcoxon signed-rank test. Statistical values in black refer to comparison with baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with the placebo.
20 – 50 subjects, each aged 16 – 65 years. The in vitro data presented here provide strong evidence that the bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis are able to generate the same mode of action as is described for retinoic acid treatment without interfering with the vitality of the cells. Multiple bioflavonoids can bind to oestrogen receptors and this finding raises the suspicion of potential endocrine disruptive function. It is worth mentioning that no significant binding to the oestrogen receptors was found for the bioflavonoids of Maclura cochinchinensis, indicating that endocrine disruption cannot take place. Development of new cosmetic active ingredients never stops and with Seboclear- MP we are entering a new retinoid-free anti- ageing approach to make possible unstrained, natural skin rejuvenation.
PC D84 Evenness
30 25 20 15 10 5
References 1. Balmer JE, Blomhoff R. Gene expression regulation
by retinoic acid. J Lipid Res. 2002;43(11):1773-808.
2. Didierjean L, Carraux P, Grand D, Sass JO, Nau H, Saurat JH. Topical retinaldehyde increases skin content of retinoic acid and exerts biologic activity in mouse skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1996;107(5):714-9.
3. Shao Y, He T, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ, Quan T. Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017;39(1):56-65.
4. Torma H. Regulation of keratin expression by retinoids. Dermato-endocrinology. 2011;3(3):136-40.
5. Liu Z, Wei W, Zhou M, Gan C, Liu S. A New Prenylated Xanthone from Root Barks of Cudrania cochinchinensis. Chinese Herbal Medicines. 2013;5(2):101-3.
6. Nagy L, Thomazy VA, Shipley GL, Fesus L, Lamph W, Heyman RA, et al. Activation of retinoid X receptors induces apoptosis in HL-60 cell lines. Molecular and cellular biology. 1995;15(7):3540-51.
7. Ooe M, Seki T, Miura T, Takada A. Comparative evaluation of wrinkle treatments. Aesthetic plastic surgery. 2013;37(2):424-33.
Roughness
8. Carruthers J, Flynn TC, Geister TL, Gortelmeyer R, Hardas B, Himmrich S, et al. Validated assessment scales for the mid face. Dermatol Surg. 2012;38(2 Spec No.):320-32.
9. Sato T, Imai N, Akimoto N, Sakiguchi T, Kitamura K, Ito A. Epidermal growth factor and 1alpha,25- dihydroxyvitamin D3 suppress lipogenesis in hamster sebaceous gland cells in vitro. J Invest Dermatol. 2001;117(4):965-70.
Wrinkles crow’s feet
Suppleness n Placebo n Active 3%
Wrinkles crow’s feet
Suppleness n Placebo n Active 3%
Figure 9: Development of anti-ageing parameters over time. Bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis outperform the placebo in all visually evaluated parameters like skin evenness, roughness, suppleness and wrinkle appearance in the crow’s feet area and the nasolabial fold (detailed in Figure 8 for these two parameters). All improvements for the active were statistically significant for baseline and evenness. The wrinkles parameters were also significant for the placebo (D84).
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
10. Kong R, Cui Y, Fisher GJ, Wang X, Chen Y, Schneider LM, et al. A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of cosmetic dermatology. 2016;15(1):49-57.
11. Yin S, Luo J, Qian A, Du J, Yang Q, Zhou S, et al. Retinoids activate the irritant receptor TRPV1 and produce sensory hypersensitivity. J Clin Invest. 2013;123(9):3941-51.
June 2018 ** **
*** = p<0.001 ** = p<0.01
*** *** ** ***
Mean + SEM; n=21,
Relative to initial condition (%)
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