MARINE INGREDIENTS 51
A deep dive into marine ingredients
n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
Exhibitions such as in-cosmetics Global are always excellent opportunities to discover new developments in ingredient technology and also speak with the experts behind them. In Amsterdam Personal Care spoke with representatives from Ashland, Cargill, Codif, and Natura-Tec to hear how top ingredient suppliers are harnessing the power of the sea to provide the cosmetics and personal care industry with unique and effective new products.
Ashland
Ashland has introduced SeaStem biofunctional technology to help skin self- renew and protect against the negative effects of environmental pollutants. Using proprietary Zeta Fraction technology, Ashland captures the benefit of the whole living plant and refines the usability of the giant kelp, which has been called the ‘sequoia of the sea’ for its towering length and rapid growth. “There have been two scientific studies which have been the foundation for this ingredient. The first one states that pollution and ultra-fine particles strongly affect stem cells and the capacity of stem cells and skin to regenerate. The second one showed that this type of macroalgae preserves the stem cell niche environment, and so we put these together and created SeaStem,” said Joel Mantelin, vice president, biofunctionals business development, Ashland, who spoke to Personal Care magazine at in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam. “Of course there is more to it, and both eco-harvesting and sustainable sourcing are something that for marine ingredients is unique. What we mean by eco-harvesting is a ‘trimming’ process rather than a harvest, and it is carried out on the Pacific coast of California, so it is closely monitored by the State of California. “The product is pure giant kelp with a small amount of preservative, and the INCI reflects this. Nothing else is added and what is not used is returned. The technology itself aims to separate what we need from the rest so we can access the
June 2018
age-defying benefits: protection of the skin; protection of the stem cells; improved cell regeneration. “From a testing perspective we have
taken three types of approach. The first is to maintain the stemness potential under ultra-fine particle stress. It’s really going into the cellular level, showing that you can keep the stemness potential. The second step is to go from the cell to the tissue, so we have reconstituted skin that we have submitted to pollution stress and we see that we have an ingredient able to preserve the regeneration potential and also enable the skin to clean off ultra-fine particles. The final approach is of the barrier function under pollution that shows it maintains barrier function and also we have a very nice test on the natural moisturising factor cascade and we see that the ingredient at every step of the cascade improves the process and improves skin moisture.” The Zeta Fraction process used in
SeaStem’s manufacturing is solvent-free, consumes minimal energy and creates minimal waste. Regeneration, nutrition and barrier functions are the three properties of the giant kelp seaweed that inspired the development of SeaStem. When asked what makes marine
ingredients stand apart from other natural actives, Joel Mantelin concluded: “I am drawn to evolution and biology and of
course it’s true that life started in the sea, but I think that marine ingredients are different, and giant kelp is perfect for this, because of the fact the algae are not on land but in the sea and the water brings nutrients. And they don’t just come from underneath the algae, but from all around. And the way the algae metabolise, they catch what is in the environment, for example the environment of Western California. Because of the currents and and because of where it is, it will never have the same elements compared to a similar source in, for instance, Norway.”
Cargill
At in-cosmetics Global, Personal Care was welcomed onto Cargill’s invitation-only stand to learn more about progress the company has been making in several areas. One of these covered the welfare of red seaweed producers who provide the raw material for a very important ingredient: carrageenan.
Carrageenans are polysaccharides (galactose) with varying degree of sulfation (between 15% and 40%). They are extracted from red seaweeds by using a gentle and environmentally-friendly process in France, and depending on the grade are used as gelling and/or thickening agents. Cargill’s intention is to enable red seaweed producers and their communities
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