MARINE INGREDIENTS 43
Marine ingredients focus: latest innovations
n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
It is generally believed that life began in the sea. All known life in the universe probably developed in or around hydrothermal vents deep in the early Earth’s oceans. The vents provide all the necessary energy to promote reactions in the sea’s chemical soup that sparked life billions of years ago. While the exact conditions and process that took place remain a mystery, what is clear is that the sea remains an incredibly important, fertile environment and a source of fascinating chemistry that has the potential to provide many industries with novel products.
The task of identifying these novel chemistries is a daunting one, and we have only just begun to dip our toes in the water. However, within a relatively short space of time, there have been many active ingredients that have their origins in marine and marine margin environments. Many of the sources were targeted because they displayed incredible resilience to hostile environments, of which there are many, including hydrothermal vents. With consumers increasingly interested
in protecting their skin from the ravages of UV and pollution, there is a real wealth of potential within the marine ecosystems, utilising their defence mechanisms to protect human skin.
Following is a selection of some of the latest marine-derived ingredients that are available on the market, all from leading global ingredient suppliers.
Marine ingredients
Ectoin is the self-defence and survival substance of extremophilic microorgansims living in hostile environments such as deserts, salt lakes, arctic ice, the deep sea or hot springs. Ectoin was discovered in 1985, when a German scientist investigated microorganisms, which he surprisingly found in a salt lake in Wadi El Natrun (Egyptian desert). bitop´s Ectoin is exclusively manufactured at the company’s German plant in Witten by a biotechnological fermentation process using a specific, non- GMO strain of the halophilic bacteria
June 2018
Halomonas elongata. The entire process is subject to a certified quality management system according to DIN EN ISO 13485. Ectoin is a very powerful natural stress-
protection molecule, a so called ‘extremolyte’. This multifunctional active ingredient is able to prevent cell damage and inflammation caused by all sorts of stress factors, thereby preserving the skin´s beauty and health. Ectoin utilises a scientific and comprehensive approach to efficient anti-ageing and skin protection by repairing and improving damaged, aged, stressed and irritated skin. The product has proven efficacy regarding
cellular protection and boosting of skin’s self- defence. In addition Ectoin exhibits global anti-pollution efficacy and prevention of UV- induced skin damage. Ectoin delivers wrinkle improvement and long-term hydration (up to 7 days) with improvement of skin roughness and scaling. Skin barrier is repaired and reinforced, while inflammation is reduced. UVA / UVB, IR-A and visible light protection is delivered on a cellular level. Claim ideas for products using Ectoin
include: ‘protects the skin from stress- factors’, ‘protects against pollution induced skin ageing’, ‘regenerates environmentally stressed skin’, ’reduces wrinkles and lines’, ‘calms and soothes irritated and inflamed skin’; ‘repairs and reinforces broken skin barrier’, ‘Increases skin hydration with long- term effect’.
In the 1990s, the launch of new makeup
lines revolutionised the Beauty Industry by focusing on ‘skin illumination’ and no more on ‘skin coverage’, initiating the new trend for a radiant complexion. Since then, a bright skin and fresh complexion have become the signs of a healthy mind and body, pushing the consumers to have an ultra-luminous and heavenly radiant skin. This trend is still among consumers’ top request: “glossing” or “highlighting” are today the newest beauty crazes to illuminate the skin in a natural way by creating natural light effects on the face. Givaudan Active Beauty’s marine biotechnology R&D experts have discovered new benefits of Megassane to act as a natural skin highlighter and
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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