NATURALS 55
Natural, effective solution helps rediscover W/O systems
n Alain Thibodeau PhD – Innovacos Corp, US
The vast majority of emulsions available in the cosmetic markets are indisputably based on Oil-in-Water systems. The reverse Water-in-Oil (W/O) high internal phase systems are traditionally restricted to sunscreens and makeup applications. An obvious benefit of using W/O emulsions for such formulations is the water resistance provided to the finished cosmetic products. The relative scarcity of W/O emulsions in mainstream cosmetics such as skin care may be related to unpleasant sensorial properties sometimes observed for those products. Furthermore, creating W/O emulsions might represent a task for the inexperienced formulator.
As part of its PolyAquol™ development
program (Personal Care Asia September 2017), Innovacos has expanded its polyglycerol platform to develop a W/O emulsifying technology known as PolyAquol-OS2. PolyAquol-OS2 (now referred to as ‘the polyglycerol-based emulsifier’) is made of the association of
polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyhydroxystearic acid and polyglyceryl-2 stearate. Being all natural and free of palm-derivatives, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier has been assigned the Ecocert and Cosmos certifications. In addition to working independently of the HLB system its ability to create stable emulsions in the absence of co-emulsifiers supports its self-emulsifying properties. An interesting feature of the polyglycerol-based emulsifier resides in its compatibility with cold-processed emulsions. Therefore, this polyglycerol- based emulsifier is effective, easy to work with and an ideal tool to create W/O emulsions with a unique sensorial profile. In the manner of the other members of the PolyAquol series, this polyglycerol- based emulsifier is issued from a recalibration of the polyglycerol chemistry. Indeed, only highly purified fatty acids and diglycerol are selected as building blocks in the manufacturing process. They are linked together in a solvent-free environment
Hydrophilic bond interactions between OH groups and water
while respecting a very precise molecular stoichiometry to obtain polyglycerol-2 oleate and polyglycerol-2 stearate derivatives. What differentiates this polyglycerol-based emulsifier is the presence of a polyhydroxystearic acid core around which the polyglycerol/fatty acid derivatives will amalgamate. Even though it is non-ionic in nature, the possibility of electrostatic interactions between the individual components of the polyglycerol- based emulsifier would support its oligomeric configuration. Furthermore, controlling the glyceryl-OH group density allows for a consistent polarity of the emulsifier (Fig 1). This leads to uniform inter-lot emulsifying properties. This meticulously controlled reactional environment also avoids the presence of free diglycerol important to maintain optimal sensorial properties of the final emulsion.
The multifaceted properties of the polyglycerol-based emulsifier are first
Lipophilic interactions between aliphatic chains and the oil phase
Figure 1: Proposed molecular orientation of the components of PolyAquol-OS2 to create stable W/O emulsions. Hydroxyl groups and oxygen residues of the polyglycerol heads would electro-interact with polyhydroxystearic acid creating an oligomeric configuration to optimally support water-in-oil emulsification.
June 2018 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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