12 IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL REVIEW
colour cosmetic, antiperspirant and sunscreen formulations. BRB also presented a high performance W/O silicone emulsifier which can effectively emulsify all types of oils at low concentrations. It can help to formulate innovative and varied emulsions with texture ranging from lotions to thick creams.
Clariant has launched a new active skin
care ingredient, B-Circadin, to fight the effects of skin damage caused by disruption to the skin’s circadian rhythm, frequently altered by stressors in daily life. Developed by Clariant Active Ingredients, B-Circadin maintains the vital synchronisation of the skin’s circadian cycle, rapidly improving the complexion while decreasing puffiness and dark circles. Inspired by the work of the 2017 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine, awarded for discoveries on how molecular mechanisms control the circadian rhythm, Clariant Active Ingredients and its partner, BioSpectrum, have further advanced the knowledge of both the biological responses to this critical cycle and what occurs when it is disrupted. B-Circadin is extracted from the Lespedeza capitata plant, grown and harvested in South Korea where it is used for its medicinal properties. The circadian cycle regulating human skin also regulates the rhythm of certain plants, accounting for those leaves and flowers opening during daytime and closing at night. Containing two key glycosylated flavonoids directly involved in circadian clock maintenance - carlinoside and isoschaftoside - B-Circadin emulates the ability to resynchronize the circadian cycle within the skin cells, to regulate rhythm-dependent biological functions such as aquaporin-3 and Nrf2 pathway detoxification efficacy. On a unique synchronised skin model, when exposed to blue light as a stressor to deregulate the circadian rhythm, essential biological functions were seen to be improved. B-Circadin also blocks the direct oxidative stress induced by blue light radiating from digital screens.
CLR Berlin launched MultiMoist CLR at in-cosmetics Global. A lack of vitamin D is a global major health problem. Vitamin D plays a vital role for those processes in the skin, enabling it to bind water. MultiMoist CLR activates production of the vitamin D receptor (VDR) and promotes the VDR’s activation. MultiMoist CLR also potentiates the effect of vitamin D. By making use of 5 different objective instrumental approaches, the immediate and long term moisturising properties of MultiMoist CLR were convincingly proven. Additionally, the activity of MultiMoist CLR was proven in a consumer study, where the subjective improvement of skin moisture
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
ingredient that inhibits in vitro 11β-HSD1. BEL-Even, was specifically developed for skin care applications by using a rational design approach. It locally rebalances the negative, long-term effects of stress on skin. BEL-Even, visibly reduces signs of a stressful lifestyle, for fuller, more supple-looking skin with improved skin elasticity and greater barrier integrity.
DuPont Industrial Biosciences (DuPont) launched Genencare OSMS PRO – a new product for the personal care industry that helps protect skin from pollution, while contributing to the natural cellular defence process.
Unlike other products on the market, Mibelle’s MossCellTec entry.
content, skin smoothness and the look of skin were confirmed. With MultiMoist CLR the puzzle of skin moisturisation is completed. MultiMoist CLR provides the cosmetic scientist with a full proof and objective solution for developing moisturising skin care products. The convincing in vivo results underline MultiMoist CLR’s strength, both for immediate and long term moisturisation. Dow was promoting its newest skin care technology that opens up attractive possibilities for consumers to enjoy ageing as a blessing. At the show, Dow’s team presented innovative textures based on their technical expertise in rheology modification; helping formulators to create new and appealing textures to leave consumers with a memorable sensory experience. Dow also showcased a new SPF-boosting technology designed for inorganic UV absorbers. The latest update to the Trendslab,
Dow’s Trendslab 2018 with its trendy formulation concepts for skin and hair, enabled in-cosmetics Global visitors to explore how to inspire new product concepts and formulations. The human skin naturally responds to periods of stress with the formation of more cortisol through a particular enzyme; 11β- HSD1. This release of cortisol, the so-called stress hormone, is a normal and healthy adaptation reflex. However, cortisol can turn into an enemy of the skin if it remains in excess over a long period of time. Beyond practicing stress-coping techniques, there is a high consumer interest for cosmetic treatments that work to both help the skin deal with stress and reverse any negative effects such as skin thinning, loss of elasticity and barrier weakening in general. With BEL-Even, DSM has designed and patented a new cosmetic
Genencare OSMS PRO is made from natural and pure ingredients, satisfying growing consumer demand for transparency. This novel natural skin protection product is based on the principle of osmoprotection. Osmolytes have the ability to manage water balance in cells and, in skin, they are part of the natural moisturisation factor (NMF). With the exponential rise in global urbanisation comes increased pollution. Consumers are concerned about the link between exposure to pollutants and health issues, including premature skin ageing, pigmentation and worsening of inflammatory skin diseases. By improving the skin barrier function and helping the natural skin defence, Genencare OSMS PRO will help consumers better protect their skin – all while using a combination of natural, pure ingredients. Vitachelox, a selection of optimised botanical compounds from Indena, produced new evidence for globally assessed skin protection. After demonstrating its ability to offer antipollution efficacy, skin protectant, free radical scavenger and chelating agents on various mechanisms triggered by the most common polluting agents, new clinical data following Vitachelox treatment showed a significant improvement in protein quality. In fact, a recent study evaluated the protective effect of Vitachelox from the damage induced by blue light on keratinocytes. The method of validation used is the evidence that blue light causes the carbonylation of proteins in keratinocytes, thus inducing a functional damage at cellular level. The outcome of the study indicates the excellent protection activity of Vitachelox on the formation of carbonylated proteins, when used as a marker of blue light-induced damage, clearly superior (results are included in a range between +78% and +82%) to the benchmark N-acetyl cysteine in terms of blue light-damage protecting efficacy. These data are considerable, as proteins carry out an important functional activity on cellular mechanisms.
June 2018
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