MARINE INGREDIENTS 53
prior to quality control and sale or further processing to obtain derivatives. There are some strong sustainability benefits to the development and use of microalgae marine ingredients, as Pascale Goyat explains: “Our concept is based on a scientific working group and advanced technology to satisfy customer expectations in terms of innovation, quality and regulatory requirements. Microalgae are a concentration of life presented in a unicellular organism. It means that they are microscopic single-celled organisms that can survive independently, feed and multiply. “Microalgae grow thanks to photosynthesis and have important functionalities: they release 2/3 of the available oxygen on the planet and sequester CO2
. Using the energy of
sunlight, photosynthesis converts water and carbon dioxide into carbohydrates and oxygen. Microalgae synthesize basic organic life molecules like amino acids, essential fatty acids, vitamins, etc. “Microalgae are the first link in the
ocean’s energy chain and are the main source of essential fatty acids: omega 3 and 6. We know that the omega 3 in fish are not produced by the fish themselves but come from the nutrients they find in the ocean such as microalgae. Microalgae ensure the functioning of major biological cycles and the maintenance of biodiversity on earth.” The method of cultivation is one of the key aspects that make Natura-Tec’s processes beneficial to the environment: “If we look more specifically at our technology to obtain microalgae, we need to make a first distinction with the macroalgae. Macroalgae, that are already well known in cosmetics, are mainly produced directly in the sea, which means that they are subject to the variations within the oceans and to possible contamination. Our microalgae are cultivated and produced in either protected and monitored open ponds or closed photo-bioreactors. Inoculum sampling in the natural environment does not have any negative impact.
“This technology does not present risk of contamination by other species or external pollution/aggression, it allows the control of the environmental conditions, helps us obtain a high level of reproducibility of biomass and high product quality. Our manufacturing site is a fully integrated microalgae, energy and bio- refinery plant, designed and developed to be an advanced sustainable production unit, energy-independent, with the lowest possible carbon foot print. “Waste vegetable oils and biomass
produced on-site are recycled in our power station to produce safe energy and feed microalgae with CO2
via a patented
process. Our manufacturing site is energy- autonomous and we produce so much
June 2018
energy that we resell some externally. Despite this, there are challenges in using these incredible organisms for industry: “An interesting specificity of microalgae is that they have the ability to adapt themselves according to the environmental stresses to which they are subjected. Examples include: variations of temperatures of the ocean; intense light; nutrient deprivation; high salinity; pH variations.
“Some scientific studies show today how high value metabolites (carotenoids, vitamins, essential fatty acids, etc), can be increased during the production process under specific stress conditions. For example, content of carotenoids can be modulated via sunlight variation, nutrient dosage, salinity condition and temperature regulation. It means they have the ‘molecular intelligence’ to evolve and adapt themselves to survive. This ability is a new challenge for the industry. “By cultivating microalgae, we control
their growth environment to guarantee a reproducible and unique composition. By using a closed photo-bioreactor system and a process adapted to the species, we have total control of the product quality to answer cosmetic requirements, provide traceability and supply chain guarantees.” Marine ingredients have been a feature of the cosmetics industry for some time now, but when asked if there was still a real hunger for new marine derived actives, Pascale Goyat said: ”The latest in-cosmetics is clear proof, we noticed a strong international interest for our marine actives and customers are eager to discuss future projects and new innovative developments in this area. Marine ingredients are not just the latest trend but represent a huge resource for the future of the cosmetic industry and of many other sectors as well.” Natura-Tec promoted their marine range at the show in Amsterdam in April, including a presence at the Innovation Zone : l Natura-Tec Marine BlueVital C - Anti- wrinkle active
l Natura-Tec Marine CellShield AP – Environmental stress defence active
l Natura-Tec Marine RevitaLys HP – Restructuring and cell revitalising active “The natural origins, the sustainability of cultivation processes and the traceability of our species are the pillars Natura-Tec builds on in order to stimulate confidence and interest in the use of innovative actives based on microalgae from a quality producer. We are excited about our new projects in the pipeline and the many possibilities that microalgae technology is opening up to us and for the benefit of our customers. Our range of marine actives continues to grow and new additional products will be soon introduced to the market.”
PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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