34 SKIN CARE
amino acid with good skin and hair conditioning properties. It can be used at very low levels and is easily dispersible in water. White powder.
Hallstar Sensolene is an emollient
derived from olive oil with great sensoriality. It restores the skin barrier and prevents water loss. It brings softness and spreadability to the product. China approved. Supplied as a yellow liquid. Akema Stabil Zero is a preservative-free
ingredient, providing multiple benefits including broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection, emolliency, moisturisation, co- emulsification, while enhancing skin-feel. Supplied as a clear liquid.
Six
Do not waste time at night, be Night Active. Apply this luxurious overnight hair mask from root to tip before bed and it works while you rest. It is a simple, smart and efficient hair routine for busy modern women and men living an urban lifestyle and looking for some ‘me-time’. Its treatment properties via an active system both repair and revitalise the hair. It is made with a hot process.
Key ingredients:
Hallstar Olivem 2020 is a naturally inspired polymeric emulsifier based on olive oil chemistry. This ingredient combines excellent emulsification performance and natural dermollience. It can also be used as a sensorial modifier, stabiliser, and thickener to provide added benefits to a very wide range of formulations. China compliant. Viscous yellow liquid.
Hallstar Biochemica Cocoa Butter Nat is Ecocert approved, natural and biodegradable. The product is obtained from the cacao tree fruit. The butter is extracted from its seed kernels, processed and refined to obtain a tan colored butter with a chocolate-like odour. It is solid at room temperature, looks like a butter, but melts readily in contact with the skin. It is used as a natural hair conditioning agent at 1%. Dow Dowsil CB-3046 Fluid is a blend of silicones dedicated to hair care. It is suitable for leave-in products, in order to give a natural look, a long-lasting frizz control, and the ability to style the hair after use. It can also be used as heat protection and shine. Listed in the Catalogue of Cosmetics Ingredients used in China.
Dow Dowsil CE-8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion is a nonionic silicone emulsion with amine and polyether functionalities. It adds moisturising feel and conditioning benefits to the mask. It improves hair slipperiness, smoothness and shine. Imparts ease of wet and dry combing and flexibility without weighing the hair down. Supplied as a milky white solution. Akema Kem Nat is formaldehyde and
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
paraben-free, Cosmos approved, preservative. Very low odour, effective in broad pH range 4-8. It is soluble in alcohol, glycols and polar oils, but very slightly soluble in water making it perfect for emulsions. More than a trend, minimalism is a movement and Univar is investing in developing formulations that will support brands in their go-to market strategy. The most recent SIM campaigns also include minimalist formulas: Fitspiration, focused on wellness, fitness and beauty, and #univarevolution, focused on green’ethic cosmetics.
Game Face – H2O Foundation All about texture, this super fluid, stable, silicone-free, long-lasting and water-based formula provides natural sheer coverage with no transfer. You are ready to sweat it out in any situation without ruining your look. Game Face ON. The challenge was to formulate and stabilise a silicone-free ultra- fluid formula with water dispersible pigments and a high amount of water. The aim was also to develop a formula with a good skin-feel and sweat-proof long lasting properties compatible with active consumer lifestyles. This formula is made with a hot process.
Key ingredients:
Elevance Soft CG-100 is a plant-based alternative emollient with elegant sensory feel, moisturisation and spreadability. It helps to reduce the waxy feel given by Olivem LV Flex. Supplied as a light yellow glossy paste.
Hallstar Olivem LV Flex is a very versatile O/W primary emulsifier. It was specifically designed for the development of light, hyperfluid and sprayable emulsions while ensuring a pleasant skin feel. 5% of Olivem LV Flex can emulsify a low amount of oils, up to 10%; ideal choice for this fluid foundation as it contains almost 80% of water. The fluidity increases when you shake the product before use as Olivem LV Flex has thixotropic effect properties. To ensure a good emulsification, high shear is necessary. Supplied as ivory waxy solid flakes. Dow Epitex 66 Polymer is a water-soluble
film-former with good long lasting and non- transfer effect. Supplied as a white liquid. Akema Kem CP is a combination of the well-known preservatives phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin with the boosting agent ethylhexylglycerin. It is soluble in water. A screening of several preservatives was made, the best results were obtained using Kem CP. Supplied as a colourless and odourless liquid.
Renaissance Artisanal Micellar Water
This is the new edition of micellar water! Responsible, effective and relaxing.
Formulated with green, eco-friendly and very mild surfactants, this micellar water is extremely gentle on your skin and removes all traces of makeup and impurities. Challenge test results show the efficacy of the preservative system. Enriched with lemon myrtle extract, its soft fragrance will help you to relax at any moment of the day. One pot, cold process. Transparent, liquid micellar water with flower petals and light fresh smell.
Key ingredients:
Colonial Poly Suga Mulse D9 is a PEG- free, nonionic surfactant made from 100% bio-based raw materials. It is hydrophilic, freely soluble in water and particularly non-irritant for the eyes. It has also very good solubilising properties especially with fragrance and essential oils. In this formula it is used to gently clean the face and remove the makeup, and it solubilises very well the fragrance and the preservative. The fragrance and the solubiliser should be premixed for scale-up. Ecocert approved. Readily biodegradable. Supplied as a yellow liquid. Kao Emanon EV-E is a 100% active, vegetable-based eco-friendly surfactant that is biodegradable and has low aquatic toxicity. Specifically in this formula, its affinity for oils makes it perfect to gently remove the makeup while being easy to rinse. Supplied as a transparent non- viscous liquid.
Down Under Enterprises Lemon Myrtle
Hydrosol contains molecules of essential oil, as well as water-soluble elements of the plant. Safe, gentle and a less expensive alternative to the essential oil. 100% natural.
Akema Stabil is an alternative system supporting the claim ‘preservative-free formula’ as it is not listed as a preservative in Annexe V. It provides multiple benefits as broad spectrum antimicrobial protection, emollient, moisturiser, skin-feel enhancer. Its efficacy was proven as the challenge test was successfully completed after 28 days, showing total inactivation of bacteria and yeast C. albicans in 2 days and of mould A. brasiliensis in 7 days. Supplied as a colourless liquid.
Conclusion
The 9th edition of SIM, #univarevolution, launched during in-cosmetics Global 2018, was focused on natural beauty, green’ethic consumers, and responsible personal care. Each one of the 13 formulas features the functionality of the focus sustainable ingredients and offers a unique sensorial experience. In an effort to boost innovation and time to market in the natural cleansing and toiletries segments, this campaign focused on rinse-off products for hair, skin and face as well as makeup.
PC June 2018
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