70 WAXES AND BUTTERS
Solving formulation problems with natural waxes
n Brian Ardito - Strahl & Pitsch, US
Formulating cosmetic and personal care products can be a very exciting and rewarding process. As with anything exciting and rewarding, it can also be very challenging at times. Whether it is an issue like syneresis, brittleness or finding suitable alternatives for common ingredients like Petrolatum or Lanolin; natural waxes are very well-positioned to aid the formulator in resolving problems and achieving their goal.
Mitigating syneresis A problem regularly encountered by many stick developers and manufacturers is the phenomenon known as syneresis. Simply defined; this is a process in which oil separates from a gel, stick, lotion, etc. Syneresis is commonly referred to as “sweating” or “bleeding” and most often associated with stick production and warmer climates. Syneresis can be very troublesome because of obvious instability and negative visual presentation. To combat this, Strahl & Pitsch offers SP- 9002 Genuine Rice Bran Wax (INCI: Oryza Sativa). Genuine Rice Bran Wax is very effective at mitigating syneresis, with notable results being achieved with percentages as low as 1% in some formulations. Additionally, Genuine Rice Bran Wax is a superior binder of oils and has been useful in combining with and stabilising oils in both anhydrous and emulsion systems. Genuine Rice Bran Wax is a light yellow,
hard, natural wax with excellent gloss and a high melt point range (79°C-85°C). Genuine Rice Bran Wax is mechanically extracted from the de-oiled cake of rice bran, not from hydrogenation of rice oil. SP-9002 Genuine Rice Bran Wax is 100% natural and extremely effective, making it ideal for a broad range of formulations where syneresis is a concern.
Addressing brittleness and pliability
All cosmetic and personal care products inherently contain ingredients that contribute to the feel and presentation of
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Carnauba wax palms.
the product. Too frequently, a product will feel dry and brittle or soft and crumbly. Several natural waxes are available from Strahl & Pitsch to address these issues with great efficacy and results. Beeswax and Carnauba Wax are all useful to the formulator once they are fundamentally understood.
Beeswax is a very effective, natural
ingredient for boosting plasticity in formulations.
Beeswax is unique because it not brittle and binds easily with oil to allow for some elasticity in stick formulations. Beeswax will also increase drag and therefore payoff as added benefits. Beeswax can be found in a wide range of applications which call for natural ingredients that are flexible. Beeswax is secreted by the honeybee
(Apis mellifera) Latin for ‘Honey Bearer’, which is used for building its hexagonal combs within the hive. Wax is collected by removing a portion of the hive’s ‘cappings’ and then refined for use in a wide variety of applications. Beeswax has a moderate MP range of 62°C-65°C and is available in white or yellow and in several grades including;
cosmetic, pharmaceutical and certified organic. To address a stick that is too soft or
crumbly, Carnauba Wax is the preferred natural option. Prized for its high MP (80°C- 86°C) and high gloss, Carnauba Wax produces a very durable film, enhances oil retention, is a stable co-emulsifier agent and will aid in pigment dispersion for color cosmetics. When manufacturing gels such as lip sticks and lip balms, Carnauba Wax functions to raise the melt point, raise viscosity and strengthen the gel. Carnauba Wax is obtained from the leaves of the palm tree known in Latin as Copernicia cerifera, also referred to as the Tree of Life. The Carnauba Palm flourishes in northeastern regions within Brazil, and proliferates naturally along riverbanks, streams and damp low-lands. The tree exudes wax through the pores on its fan- shaped leaves, which prevent dehydration in the equatorial climate.
Modifying playtime Puresters are vegetable derived esters for cosmetic & personal care use. Produced
June 2018
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88
