WAXES & BUTTERS 73
Tea Wax: a unique wax for hair and skin properties
n Martina Heldermann– KahlWax, Germany
Camellia sinensis is a species of evergreen shrub whose leaves and leaf buds are used to produce tea. It is of the genus Camellia of flowering plants in the family Theaceae. Camellia sinensis is native to East Asia, the Indian subcontinent, and Southeast Asia, but it is today cultivated across the world in tropical and subtropical regions. Tea plants will grow into a tree if left undisturbed, but cultivated plants are pruned to waist height for ease of plucking. Two principal varieties are used, the small- leaved Chinese variety (C. sinensis sinensis) and the large-leaved Assamese plant (C. sinensis assamica), which is mainly grown for black tea production. White tea, yellow tea, green tea, oolong, Pu-erh tea, and black tea are all harvested from Camellia sinensis, but are processed differently to obtain varying levels of oxidation. Fresh tea leaves contain about 4%
caffeine as well as related compounds, including theobromine. The young, light green leaves are preferably harvested for tea production; older leaves are deeper green. Different leaf ages produce differing tea qualities, since their chemical
n Body butter with 3% 6614 n Body butter placebo 9.0 8.5 8.0 7.5 7.0 6.5 0 Time (h) Figure 1: TEWL.
compositions are different. Usually, the tip (bud) and the first two to three leaves are harvested for processing. This hand picking is repeated every one to two weeks. Tea Wax is a side product of tea
production. The crude wax covers the leaves, protecting them against mold, parasites, and loss of moisture. For
Viscosity n placebo n 6614 Lubricity
decaffeinated teas, the leaves are treated with CO2
extraction to remove the caffeine.
The caffeine gained through this process is used for energy drinks, caffeine pills, and other processing industries. The extraction step also removes the wax from the leaves.
Properties Tea Wax is a soft, creamy, and medium-low melting wax. It is easy to incorporate in any type of formulation and is compatible with all commonly used ingredients. Due to its high amount of hydrocarbons
Whitening Skin absorption Skin feel Richness
values > 0 indicated an increase in the corresponding parameter in comparison to the placebo values < 0 indicate decrease in comparison to the placebo
Figure 2: Sensorial profile. June 2018 Cushion effect
(approx. 10%), comparable to beeswax, Tea Wax has a very soft texture. It makes emulsions more substantial, and its impact is similar to that of an emollient. While having no big influence on hardness, Tea Wax increases the creaminess of a finished formulation. It provides good oil- binding capacity with very polar and non- polar emollients. Remarkably, Tea Wax works excellently with paraffin oil. Because of its medium low drop melting range of 60–66°C, Tea Wax is perfect for colour cosmetic preparations, providing excellent pay-off and smoothness. It also gives low viscous systems such as O/W emulsions and aqueous gels a soft, creamy, and homogenous texture.
Just a few per cent adds a characteristic PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 1
TEWL (g/hm2)
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