74 WAXES & BUTTERS
Formulation 1: I save your lips Phase A
Ingredients 6614 Tea Wax1 7236 OrganicJelly1 6290 Berry Wax1
6607L Sunflower Seed Wax1
6702 Natural Candelilla Wax Substitute1
5725 Araucaria Resin + Castor Oil1
Nacol 16-952 Jojoba Oil3 Eutanol G4
B C
Dehymuls PGPH4 Water
Glycerin Preservative Procedure:
Combine phase A and B ingredients separately at 80 °C. Add phase B to A. Stir with a dissolver for 15 minutes and homogenize for 1 minute. Cool the bulk to 75 °C, add phase C, and fill into molds.
Properties
Appearance: yellow stick Stability: passed three months at RT, 40 °C, and 50 °C
Suppliers: 1 KahlWax 2 Sasol 3 HenryLamotte 4 BASF
Formulation 1: SC-LIP-004-03, I save your lips, W/O Lip Balm. Thanks to the greenish-yellow Tea Wax the lip balm has a refreshing flavour and gets a super natural appearance. The formula creates a waxy and protective layer which feels lighter and less occlusive due to the unique sensorial properties of Tea Wax.
Formulation 2: You are a natural Phase A
Ingredients Water
B
Dermofeel PA-31 Dermofeel GSC1
Emulgade PL 68/502 Lanette O2
Daikon Seed Extract3 6614 Tea Wax4
C
6279L Myrica Fruit Wax4 Preservative
Procedure:
Heat phase A and B ingredients separately to 80 °C. Emulsify phase B into A under stirring. Homogenize for 90 seconds.
Properties
Appearance: yellow, clear oil pH value: 5.0–5.5 Viscosity (Brookfield: LV; speed: 30 rpm; Sp64): 10,000–12,000 mPas Stability: passed three months at RT, 40 °C, and 50 °C
Suppliers: 1 Evonik Dr. Straetmans 2 BASF 3 Natural Plant Products 4 KahlWax
Formulation 2: HC-LEN-001-02, You are a natural, Natural Hair Conditioner. Tea wax gives the cream rinse a very creamy but flowing texture. It is easier to spread on hair and gives a super rich feel. On hair Tea Wax is not waxy but lubricous and provides a natural gloss.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
INCI Aqua
Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol
Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Cera* (*preliminary INCI) Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax
%
ad 100 0.10 2.50 3.00 4.00 1.00 1.50 3.00 q.s.
INCI Camellia Sinensis Leaf Cera* (*preliminary INCI)
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Cera Alba, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol
Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera/Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Shorea Robusta Resin, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera/Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate
Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol
Cetyl Alcohol
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Octyldodecanol
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate Aqua
Glycerin % 3.00 14.50 5.00 8.00 6.00 6.00 2.00 15.20
ad 100 9.00 8.00 0.50
q.s.
natural tea scent and flavour to a formulation. It can be used as a natural fragrance and flavour, complemented with other notes, or is easily masked with perfume oil. The recommended use level of Tea Wax is 1%–3%. Due to its intense colour, higher amounts are probably only feasible in pigmented formulations. Depending on the use level, it shifts the colour of emulsions toward yellow. In non-pigmented cosmetics the colour of the wax may fade over time. If the exact colour is of importance, we recommend an airtight and nontransparent packaging.
Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) Skin care products generally seek to increase the water content of the stratum corneum, which depends on the barrier properties and the water gradient across the epidermis. High water content in the stratum corneum and low TEWL are among the main features of healthy skin. The evaluation of TEWL is a well-established method in dermatology to assess the integrity of the skin barrier. When skin is damaged, its barrier function is impaired resulting in increased water loss. TEWL measurements allow observation of disturbances in the protective function of the skin at an early stage even before they are visible.
The TEWL on the inner forearm (defined
test area) of 12 volunteers was determined by means of a Tewameter.
One hour after the application of the O/W emulsion with 3% Tea Wax, the TEWL had decreased statistically significantly.
Sensorial profile Emulsions are the underlying basis of personal care formulations for skin. They are seemingly simple, yet complex systems, which allow the skin care chemist to combine otherwise immiscible ingredients into effective, commercially desirable skin care products. Emulsions are very versatile vehicles that can incorporate a variety of ingredients and allow simultaneous delivery of hydrophilic and hydrophobic ingredients to the skin. This gives the advantage of developing custom- made formulations designed for various skin types or addressing many skin conditions. But the success of a product often depends mainly on its sensorial attributes, in which case the consumer is the best candidate to judge. Therefore a sensory evaluation study has been conducted with 20 skilled volunteers by means of a descriptive skin- feel analysis. In a paired comparison of an O/W emulsion containing 3% Tea Wax to an O/W placebo with 3% MCT oil the 20 volunteers had to rate the specific parameter on a score of 1 (not distinct
June 2018
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88
