IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL REVIEW 11
The Biotechnology Actives tour stopped by Kalichem, Mibelle Biotechnology, Givaudan, Codif and the show’s Innovation Zone to explore how suppliers are harnessing living systems and organisms to create highly effective active ingredients.
Getting products ready for market Compliance professionals were invited to in-cosmetics Global’s first regulatory pre- show conference, run by Conusbat Regulatory Services. The half-day programme was designed to help manufacturers navigate the ever- changing regulatory landscape of the global beauty industry and get their products to shelf more quickly. The industry’s leading consultants came together to give delegates a thorough analysis of current regulations from the world’s largest markets.
Among those speaking at the
conference was Dr Annelie Struessmann, technical regulatory director at Conusbat Regulatory Services, who discussed key regulatory modules in the EU’s cosmetics framework. She was joined by Dr Gerald Renner, technical regulatory affairs director at Cosmetics Europe, who compared EU compliance modules with transitioning cosmetic regulations across China, Taiwan, India, Israel, Russia and Australia. During the show itself, the half-day workshop programme helped cosmetic chemists and NPD professionals better understand a host of pertinent industry issues. Delivered by academics and R&D experts from Germany, Italy, France and the US, delegates learnt about the latest research in sun care protection, the microbiome and natural formulations, as well as how to develop cosmetic claims. Cosmetic testing is hugely important to the success of a product and the new Boost Your Test area of the show put three different methods in the spotlight. R&D
Naturalps after their Formulation Challenge victory.
teams discovered essential information about human testing, in vitro testing and high-tech devices, as experts discussed how they can support NPD in anti-pollution, microbiome and anti-ageing products.
Formulation challenge For the first time, in-cosmetics Global hosted a Formulation Challenge, where six manufacturers – Naturalps, Johnson & Johnson, Sabon/Yves Rocher, Delarange, Flores and Herrco Cosmetics – battled to create an innovative new beauty product in just 90 minutes, using a box of mystery ingredients.
Belinda Carli, official technical advisor to the in-cosmetics Group, noted how each concept created during the challenge was on trend. Runner-up Delarange took a holistic approach to its instant-effects products – InstaCream and InstaSerum – which was targeted at a millennial audience. But it was Swiss-based Naturalps who claimed victory with its natural, moisturising eye cream that received top marks for its anti-pollution properties and claim to fight against wrinkles.
Ludovic Simon, CEO and co-founder of
Naturalps, said: “We really wanted to compete with other labs, just to see where we were and if our formulation strength was at the same level of the competition. We are extremely proud of winning!”
Innovation on the stands Once again there were many new launches at the show, including: Progeline by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics – an ingredient that reduces signs of ageing, sagging, wrinkles and improves the jawline; Shineblend MAX from Innospec – a shine enhancing additive for skin and hair; Naturex’s newly-launched hydrating agent Hydranellys - an active derived from Selaginella, known in China as the ‘resurrection plant’ for its ability to survive extreme drought conditions. Ashland’s new Optimage SF microgel
provides rapid and significant improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The product’s soft, flexible, silicone-free microgels do not interfere with other common skin care chassis ingredients, typically enhance formulation stability, and are easy to use due to their pre-dispersed liquid product form. Also presented at the show, Ashland’s
ChromoHance 113 patented polymer helps keep rainbow hair colour in good condition for up to eight weeks between salon visits. Used in shampoos and conditioners, ChromoHance 113 shields colour-treated hair from surfactant stripping by forming a hydrophobic surface on each strand, reducing water absorption during washing and slowing the fading process. BRB presented a full range of innovative silicone elastomers at in-cosmetics Global which provide dry, non-greasy, yet silky- smooth skin-feel while absorbing quickly onto the skin.
Biotechnology Actives Tour. June 2018
Silicone elastomer is used as thickening agent in the preparation of W/O or W/Si formulations. They can act as stabilising agents due to their inherent compatibility with a variety of lipophilic active ingredients, e.g. perfumes, UV filters, etc. They are widely used in skin care, hair care,
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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