14 IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL REVIEW
modern urban lifestyle. We’re pleased to share the results at in-cosmetics Global.” Silab launched Ecobiotys a natural active
ingredient bio-inspired by the regulating capacity of floral nectar microbiota, the Nectarobiota, able to rebalance the microbiota of mature skin which thus recovers a radiant complexion. Silab has applied its expertise in mastering nature and biotechnologies to study the very particular microbiota of floral nectar, the Nectarobiota, and more specifically the one of a refined and highly nectariferous plant: Hoya carnosa or porcelain flower. In the extremely rich and diverse realm of Hoyas, this plant with luminous flowers stands out by its Nectarobiota which ensures its defence, development and regeneration. Within this Nectarobiota, Silab
performed a customised sampling and specifically isolated the yeast Metschnikowia reukaufii to use it as a raw material for the development of its novel active ingredient rich in biopeptides: Ecobiotys. Wesource launched a new active
ingredient for pollution & blue light protection, acting on autophagy. Seppic, and its dedicated brand for cosmetic active ingredients wesource, offer a new active ingredient from butterfly ginger, a plant from Madagascar locally known as Sakarivodambo.
Sakadikium, a concentrated extract of
sugars from the rhizomes of Hedychium coronarium offers wide skin benefits. It acts as a multiprotector when exposed to blue light, UV and pollution. This detoxifying approach is contributing to a better brightness on the skin.
As a clinical benefit, the trained evaluation technicians perceive a better brightness (+ 16%) in women exposed to pollution after 28 days of application versus placebo. Self evaluation tests showed benefits from Sakadikium. Skin is more luminous, moisturised, suppler, and softer. Complexion is more radiant and homogeneous. Virginie Anchartechahar, in charge of Innovation & Development of Serdex (Seppic group), said: “In 2016, Yoshinori Ohsumi received a Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine in Stockholm for his discoveries on mechanisms of autophagy. We explored the autophagy pathway and discovered that Sakadikium protects the lysosomal network. It regulates cellular autophagy, reducing the effects of oxidative stress generated by blue light.”
Innovation Zone
Demonstrating the new ideas on display this year, the show’s Innovation Zone was home to 130 of the most exciting launches
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Evonik celebrate their win.
from the last six months – another record for the event. Alongside the area, Mintel revealed some of the most ingenious finished products from around the world that deliver in texture, format, application technique, ingredients, formulation or packaging. Numerous areas around the show were
created to help manufacturers identify unique new ingredients that can inspire NPD. One of the most popular features was the Sustainability Corner that focused on environmental and social issues. Suppliers showcased products and talked about how to reduce plastic waste, limit air pollution and develop ethically-sourced products, including eco-friendly alternatives to environment-harming products like microbeads. Visitors could also find the latest suppliers offering pigments and technology to create outstanding colour cosmetics in the Make-Up Bar. Echoing the trend for sustainable products, Ronald Britton showcased its Cosmetic Bioglitter Pure - a plastic-free and naturally biodegradeable glitter.
Additionally, the Sensory Bar revealed a host of new ways to create unusual textures and sensations – including hybrid textures, heating and cooling products, jellies, butters and powders. Visitors were impressed by products that changed form upon touching the skin, such as the Harmony of 10 range by Nikko Chemicals – a transparent oil-gel that transforms to water on the skin, drenching the user with silky moisture. Another product that excited the industry was the Very Berry Jelly Mask from Elementis Specialities, which transformed from liquid to jelly upon skin contact.
Award winners
The innovation at in-cosmetics was summed up by the Best Ingredient Awards, where the foremost new product launches were celebrated by the cosmetics industry.
Gold in Best Active Ingredient category went to Mibelle Biochemistry for its MossCellTec No.1, while Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH won Gold in the Best Functional Ingredient category for its Rheance Glycolipids. Lessonia, Elementis and Ronald Britton also scooped the top awards in the Green Ingredient, Sensory and Make-Up categories.
On winning Gold in the Functional
Ingredients category, Dr Hans Henning Wenk, head of R&D Biobased Materials at Evonik, said: “We are absolutely amazed to win. We have put so much energy into the development of this ingredients for six years – I think it is a breakthrough. We are launching this new technology for the first time and so to get this recognition is fantastic – there will be more to come from Evonik!”
Gold Actives category winner Dr Fred Zulli, head of Business Unit Biochemistry at Mibelle Biochemistry, said: “We are so happy and surprised to have won this award. It is so difficult to succeed in this competition when there are so many great ingredients around.”
On to next year
Roziani Zulkifli, exhibition manager of in- cosmetics Global, commented: “This year’s event was hugely successful and the feedback from our first smart event was fantastic. in-cosmetics Global has once again brought together the most successful and innovative ingredient suppliers, with the world’s foremost experts, to provide the tools that will inspire cosmetic manufacturers in their labs. And we’re proud to keep bringing fresh ideas to the event that deliver huge value to visitors and exhibitors alike, such as the R&D Tours and Boost Your Test areas.”
in-cosmetics Global 2019 will return from 2-4 April 2019 at Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles.
PC June 2018
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