MARINE INGREDIENTS 47 n Maritech Bright n Placebo 280 100 80 260 60 240 40 220 20 200 0 15 30 Time in days Figure 2: Reduction of skin spots.
of both of these compounds in a high- purity fucoidan ingredient range. Maritech® Bright – a clinically validated cosmetic ingredient – has specifically been developed to capture the skin brightening abilities of both Fucus vesiculosus fucoidan and marine polyphenols.
Pure source Due to the porous nature of seaweed, the plant can readily absorb and retain impurities from the marine environment in which it grows. Seaweeds ‘farmed’ on mass scales are commonly grown in polluted waters with high levels of nutrient waste. Harvesting these plants can cause major disruption to the surrounding marine ecosystem and poses a health risk. Maritech Bright is extracted from wild
grown Fucus vesiculosus macroalgae, originating in the northern hemisphere. This seaweed is sourced from the cool, pristine waters of Nova Scotia and Brittany using best practice environmental standards. The plant is harvested in line with its seasonal growth cycle to minimise disruption to the environment and ensure sustainable growth. Once harvested, the seaweed is immediately sun dried to retain the natural bioactivity of fucoidan and polyphenol compounds.
Green chemistry extraction Set apart from other fucoidan ingredients, Maritech Bright is extracted using a gentle, cold water extraction process developed and used exclusively by Marinova. This proprietary Maritech technology uses green chemistry principles to retain the natural bioactivity of fucoidan and polyphenols without the use of chemical solvents. Traditionally, fucoidan has been precipitated from crude extracts using harsh chemical solvents. Not only can this cause
June 2018 Figure 3: Inhibition of tyrosinase.
degradation of the chemical integrity of fucoidan, but often results in contaminants being present in the final extract. In contrast, Marinova’s solvent-free extraction technology guarantees the absence of solvents and chemical residues in its range of fucoidan ingredients, including Maritech Bright.
Skin brightening The skin brightening properties of Marinova’s Fucus vesiculosus extract have been clinically proven at very low inclusion rates in extensive in vitro and human clinical studies.4
In a double-blind, placebo-
controlled, hemi-face clinical study, 20 volunteers applied a cream containing either 0.3% Fucus vesiculosus extract or placebo twice daily for a period of 60 days. A dermatological assessment undertaken at 60 days confirmed an improvement in skin brightness in 50% of subjects using the active. This was verified by instrumental evaluation showing an increase of 16% in skin brightness or gloss. All subjects self- reported an increase in skin brightness. Wider research confirms the skin brightening effects of fucoidan from Fucus vesiculosus as a treatment for under-eye dark circles.6
In laboratory studies, fucoidan
was shown to stimulate the heme oxygenase-1 enzyme at both gene and protein level, promoting degradation of toxic heme and reducing the source of dark eye circles.
Reduction in skin spots and redness Fucus vesiculosus extract has been shown to significantly reduce skin spot pigmentation. A dermatological assessment undertaken at 60 days confirmed an improvement in skin spot appearance in 65% of subjects. This was verified by instrumental evaluation showing
Enzyme inhibition Fucus vesiculosus extract is a powerful inhibitor of tyrosinase - an enzyme responsible for suppressing melanin biosynthesis in the skin. The inhibition of tyrosinase is instrumental in enhancing skin brightness. In an in vitro study, Fucus vesiculosus extract was shown to effectively inhibit tyrosinase by 97% at a low concentration of 0.02 mg/mL. Additional research shows that Fucus vesiculosus extract inhibits the extracellular matrix enzymes, collagenase and elastase, which cause degradation of the skin. The inhibition of collagenase can reduce the effects of ageing and promote the formation of new tissue. The inhibition of elastase can lead to an increase in skin elasticity. Previous research also notes the inhibitory properties of fucoidan on matrix degrading enzymes.7,8
Antioxidant protection The skin brightening properties of Fucus vesiculosus can also be attributed to its very high antioxidant levels. The skin is subject to oxidising stresses caused by everyday environmental factors such as pollution, diet and sunlight.9
Exposure to UV radiation PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
a decrease of 20% in skin spot intensity. In addition to this, 95% of subjects participating in the trial self-reported an increase in skin brightness using Fucus vesiculosus extract.
In a separate double-blind, placebo-
controlled clinical study, Fucus vesiculosus extract was shown to reduce UV induced skin reddening and trans-epithelial water loss – important factors in preserving skin health and brightness. In this study, the extract reduced skin redness by up to 50% and reduced water loss from skin exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light by up to 33%.
60 0 Maritech Bright Kojic Acid n 0.1 mg/ml inhibitor n 0.02 mg/ml inibitor
Melanin index
% inhibition
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