66 HAIR TREATMENT
Prevention of hair damage during multiple bleachings
n Michael Franzke, Diem Tran, David Popplewell, Bert Kroon – Ashland Industries, The Netherlands n Lidia Kulcsar, Valencia S Johnson, Larry Senak, Roger L. McMullen, William Thompson – Ashland Specialty Ingredients, US
Chemical treatments, such as colouring and bleaching, are known to cause extensive damage to the cuticle and cortex of the hair, compromising the hair’s structural integrity. Repeated colouring and bleaching reduce the elasticity and tensile strength of the hair fibre, making hair more prone to breakage. Small molecules can penetrate into the cortex and moderate the damage to the cortex. Bond builders/plexes are added to bleaches to help prevent damage and strengthen hair during the bleaching process. Typically, these treatments utilise small molecules, such as amino acids, low molecular weight proteins, and ceramides. Plexes which are added to bleaching products prior to application on hair have been growing in popularity.
FiberHance™ BM has multiple hydroxyl
groups and an amide group that allow the molecule to form hydrogen bonds, acting as a physical crosslinking agent to restore and stabilise the internal structure of hair.1 Because FiberHance BM (now referred to as ‘the hair protecting molecule’) is designed to penetrate into the cortex, and repair hair fibres, we investigated the efficacy of the molecule in the bleach/peroxide mixture during the application phase of the treatment. Our investigative techniques included cyclic fatigue testing, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), Fourier transform-infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopic imaging, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM).
Test methodology For this study, we used virgin dark brown (15.24 cm long, medium density swatch) hair purchased from International Hair Importers (Glendale, NY, United States). Clairol Professional BW2 Powder Lightener (Coty Inc, New York, NY, United States) was mixed with Clairol Professional Soy4plex 40 volume peroxide (Coty Inc, New York, NY, United States) according to the package directions. The bleach/peroxide mixture was applied to the control tress as prepared. To test the effect of the hair
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
OH OH +
OH OH HO OH OH Figure 1: Molecular structure of FiberHance BM solution.
protecting molecule in the bleaching formula, the hair protecting molecule was added to the bleach/peroxide mixture in an amount so that the bleach/peroxide mixture contained 1% solid hair protecting molecule. All tresses were allowed to process for 60 minutes at room temperature (23°C). After processing, hair was rinsed under water (4 L/min, 38°C) for four minutes, and left to air dry. The bleaching process was repeated a total of three times. Hair bleaching was completed prior to all instrumental measurements. Changes in the mechanical properties of hair were studied with the Cyclic CYC801
instrument, (purchased from Diastron Unlimited, Andover, UK), which has an automated hair loading sample (n=50), and is fitted with a Fiber Dimensional Analysis System (FDAS 765 model), that incorporates the Mitutoyo laser micrometer (LSM-500) to measure the hair diameter of each fibre. Each fiber was then crimped using PVC-lined brass crimps. The space between two crimps was set at 30 mm. Hair cross-section was calculated from fiber diameter measurements from which averaged values were obtained from five measurement points along the fibre. These values were then used to set the cyclic
June 2018 O O Abstract
FiberHance™ BM solution (INCI: hydroxypropyl gluconamide (and) hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate) is a novel patent pending molecule that is proven to help prevent damage to hair during bleaching. FiberHance BM penetrates into the cuticle and cortex of hair to create hydrogen and ionic bonds, which stabilise its structural integrity. It is derived from gluconolactone, and is designed to strengthen and repair hair fibres. We investigated the influence of the novel gluconolactone derivative in the prevention of hair damage when applied to a bleaching mixture. Our measurements confirm that the small gluconolactone derivate is very effective at mitigating hair damage during the bleaching process.
OH OH HO O
H N
H H
N +
H OH
OH
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88
