WAXES & BUTTERS 75
Formulation 3: It all comes down to the green Phase A
Ingredients Water
Glycerin
A1 A2 B
Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer1 NaOH (30 %)
5109 Sunflower + Carnauba Emulsifying Complex2
Arlacel 1658 Lanette O3
Avocado Oil4
6240 Vegetable Wax2 6237 Rapeseed Wax2 6614 Tea Wax2
C Dermofeel MT 70 non GMO5
Unicert Blue 05601-J (0.10 %)6 Ananas natural7 Preservative
Procedure:
Blend phase A ingredients, neutralize, and add A2. Heat to 80–85 °C and stir until it is homogeneous. Combine phase B ingredients and heat to 80–85 °C. Add phase B to A/A1/A2 under agitation. Continue mixing at 80 °C for 3–5 minutes. Cool to 65–70 °C, add phase C, and fill into packaging. Let it set for 2–3 days.
Properties
Appearance: pale green butter pH value: 6.0–6.5 Stability: passed three months at RT, 40 °C, and 50 °C
Suppliers: 1 Lubrizol 2 KahlWax 3 BASF 4 Henry Lamotte 5 Evonik Dr. Staetman 6 Sensient 7 Vögele 8 Croda
Formulation 3: SC-BOD-022-11, It all comes down to the green, Body Butter. Tea wax feels more like an emollient on skin than a wax which supports the skin softening properties of this formulation. The formulation is quite rich but very fast absorbed without leaving a greasy film. Especially in emulsified systems the natural tea scent comes into its own.
P roductVision® The Essence of Product Development Software
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Modular design Simple to use Powerful query function Graphical interface Automates development Reduces time to market Integrates into ERP systems Powerful legislative tools GHS compliant Full security and auditing
Personal care solutions
Guidelines & Restrictions checks to ensure product compliance Track testing & QC requirements Allergens calculation and reporting IFRA dosage compliance for fragrances Built-in reporting tools Automatic complex calculations Product properties • Costs • Allergen content • Product restrictions and many more …
INCI Aqua
Glycerin Acrylates Copolymer Aqua, Sodium Hydroxide
Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol
Persea Gratissima Oil
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Cera* (*preliminary INCI)
Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Aqua, CI 42090 Parfum
%
ad 100 4.50 1.50 0.20
2.00 4.00
3.00 7.50 3.75
17.00 1.50
0.20
0.35 0.15 q.s.
characteristic) to 5 (distinct). The web chart shows the difference of
the score of the verum in relation to the placebo which is set to zero. The volunteers noticed a change in several parameters especially overall skin-feel, viscosity, and enhanced absorption. Usually waxes have an impact on the
texture of an O/W emulsion but as they are entrapped in the inner phase not automatically on the viscosity. But Tea Wax is able to raise the viscosity of an O/W emulsion significantly, leading to an extreme creamy and dense formulation. This property makes Tea Wax also ideal for emulsified hair rinses, conditioners and masks supporting or replacing fatty alcohol.
Conclusion Tea Wax is a soft, medium-low melting wax derived from the leaves of the Camellia sinenis plant, which is easy to incorporate in any type of formulation and provides various positive effects such as increased pay-off, smoothness and creaminess, while also adding a characteristic scent and flavour. As shown in an in vivo study, it is able to lower the transepidermal water loss, therefore moisturising the skin and improving its natural barrier function, making it an ideal choice for skin care application.
Sensory features of cosmetic products
are one of their most important characteristics for consumer acceptance. Tea Wax combines the soft skin-feel of an emollient and the viscosity enhancing properties of a classic wax, which leads to very creamy and dense formulations, providing a pleasant consumer experience.
PC
For more information call +44 (0)208 1233 196 or email
eu.sales@
asdsoftware.com
www.asdsoftware.com June 2018 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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