38 SKIN CARE n with 5% Aurafirm N n without Aurafirm n with 5% Aurafirm P
7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
0,00 1h 2h 4h 6h
Figure 2: Effect of aurafirm on the metabolic activity of a ‘microbiome’ model.
skin microflora.8
benefits from oat ingested products and foods are well known9,10
While the well published microbiome the cosmetic
industry’s general understanding of the science surrounding the skin’s microbiome and the consequential influence of various topical ingredients, is still in its infancy. This presents the ingredient supplier with a challenge in ensuring the data presented is relevant and valid.
Skin barrier perturbations Skin barrier disturbance is a common feature of dry skin including atopic dermatitis. Drier skin tends to appear older with fine lines becoming more prominent (8a). Atopic dermatitis (AD) itself is a complex irritating and drier skin condition, and its pathogenesis is also clearly associated with an imbalance in the skin’s natural microbiome.11
Microorganisms play
a key influential role in AD pathogenesis, and subjects with AD exhibit defects in their immune responses resulting in a heightened susceptibility to not only bacterial, fungal and viral infections, but notably Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) colonisation on the skin. Toxins (antigens) produced by S. aureus exacerbate disease activity via the induction of toxin−specific IgE and the activation of various cell types including Th-2 cells, eosinophils and keratinocytes.12
Furthermore, allergens
expressed by the yeast Malazessia furfur, a component of normal skin microflora, have also been implicated in the pathogenesis of some AD subjects.13
Microbiome disturbances and oxidative stress
The skin is naturally enveloped in its own microbiome6
and these are unique to each
individual, with no two persons’ microbiome being exactly identical. Each skin’s microbiome plays a key role in the maturation and homeostatic regulation of keratinocytes and immune system7
with PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
35.2 30.2 25.2 20.2 15.2 10.2 5.2
8h 10h 12h 14h 16h 18h 20h 22h 24h Figure 3: Effect of aurafirm on the stability of a ‘microbiome’ model.
dysfunction of both implicated in ageing processes and disease.14
As our primary
connection with the external environment, the skin’s microbiome biodiversity is heavily influenced by many external factors, including the biodiversity of our intimate external and internal environments, lifestyle habits and exposures. These include poor diet, disease, excessive hygiene, smoking, cosmetics, pollution, UV, drugs, etc. It is the consequences of microbiome disturbances and composition that will also lead to increased skin (oxidative) stress, etc., thus an increase in certain defined ageing parameters. A well protected skin in terms of efficient barrier also possesses a well-balanced microbiome. Genetics, lifestyle choices, and the environment stress this balance, and so it is important to give the skin’s microbiome additional support by ensuring that products applied to the skin promote this healthy balance, rather than detract from it. By formulating with prebiotics designed especially to provide favourable conditions for the microbiome is one approach. Given the excellence of colloidal oat in the treatment and prevention of dry irritated skin,1
its performance is expected to be
enhanced through fermentation to provide this additional support.
Colloidal oatmeal performance The clinical properties of colloidal oatmeal derive from its chemical composition diversity.15
The high concentration in
starches and β-glucan is responsible for the protective and water-holding functions of oat.16-18
As previously reported19,20 Oat COM
colloidal oatmeal is an advanced colloidal oatmeal due to its structural and chemical composition with marked improvements in oil and water binding capacities (30% and 88% respectively), as well as a much higher β-glucan content than standard preparations. Furthermore, it maintained its anti-inflammatory activity, and demonstrated improved consumer
aesthetics.19
The presence of different types of polyphenols confers antioxidant and anti- inflammatory activity.21
Its many functional
properties make colloidal oatmeal a cleanser, moisturiser, buffer, as well as a soothing and protective anti-inflammatory agent.17,19
Ferment attributes: Influence on the development microbial stability aurafirm (now referred to as ‘fermented colloidal oatmeal’) is a natural active containing a prebiotic complex resulting from the fermentation of Oat Cosmetics’ patented colloidal oatmeal (Oat COM) in order to deliver favourable environmental conditions (oat phytochemicals, pH value, Natural Moisturising Factors), unique nutrients, and enhanced protective metabolites to help support and promote the skin’s microbiome. It is suggested that by fermenting Oat COM, its active components would become more bioavailable - thus enhancing its beneficial properties. Through long-term fermentation of Oat COM, utilising unique, versatile and stable Lactobacilli strains, the resultant fermented colloidal oatmeal presents itself as an active containing skin beneficial alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic and lactic acid), skin signalling oat peptides, phospholipids and polyols (Table 1 and Figure 1) - all helping to promote a well- balanced radiant skin. While there is no perfect microbiome to fit all skin types, gender, age, and genetics; providing the skin with a prebiotic mix of principle actives to enhance normalisation of the skin’s microflora, is an intelligent approach to addressing a number of skin conditions such as atopy, acne, etc. The aim of this initial study was to investigate the potential of fermented colloidal oatmeal to behave as a prebiotic, and the influence of varying fermented colloidal oatmeal compositions on the initial and exponential growth phase of a well-documented microbial colony.22
n with 5% Aurafirm N n without Aurafirm n with 5% Aurafirm P
The study was designed June 2018
Rate of Acidification
Rate of Acidification
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