SUN PROTECTION 63
Enjoying the benefits of sun, in and out
n Giada Maramaldi – Indena, Italy
Up to the 19th century, skin whiteness was popular within the upper classes, hinting at a noble life of leisure spent indoors, as dark skin was mostly associated with labouring in fields all day. The trend for whiteness halted when the Industrial Revolution was born, meaning that, by the 19th century, the working classes had moved ‘into the shadows’ as they lived in cramped dwellings and worked in mines and factories. Any leisure time available was taken indoors, to avoid the smog and soot of the streets. Children developed rickets and other bone deformities. Then, sun radiation became friendlier when, in early 1900, Niels Finsen was awarded the Nobel Prize for medicine after using ‘phototherapy’ to treat rickets and the world recognised that sunlight was crucial for bone development. In the West, tanning was only made chic years later, when Madame Coco Chanel got tanned on a Mediterranean cruise and set a new precedent of beauty. To common people, this look was aspirational rather than achievable as holidays were rare, and went no further than the nearest lake, hill or seaside. The end of the Second World War then gave birth to a new and not so famous positive link connected to the sun: the US soldiers returning to their home country from either Europe or Asia were sun tanned and this led to the link that being tanned was a symbol of commitment to stand for freedom and human rights.
By the 1960s, the travel industry was starting to flourish as well as air travel and with the post-war recovery people soon had enough money to enjoy holidays and the glamour of sunbathing drew people attention, particularly at the sea. In the 1970s, methods of sunless tanning were introduced and by 1978, the sunbed was launched as a quick way of bronzing. The cosmetics boom of the 1980s and the accessibility of package holidays too carried the glamour of tanning through to the 1990s. Then, with movies and show business presenting new beauty and multi- ethnic models, women and men with toffee-coloured skin became the forefront
June 2018
of definitions of 21st century beauty. The desire to have a tanned aspect became huge but, at the same time, fears surrounding the risks of tanning and long exposure to UVA and B rays grew, as that rates of malignant melanoma increased, and this became one of the most common forms of cancer. The major blame was put upon sun radiation exposure. In recent decades, due to dramatic climate change effects and sun radiation reaching our Earth with a thinner atmospheric barrier, the sun protection industry evolved hugely in both the level and type of protection as well as in the properties of cosmetic products, driven by consumer needs and by technology innovation. This enabled companies to feed consumers with more qualitative and attractive products, able to protect from a wide range of new environmental and technology stressors, not only from sun radiation but also from air and light pollution. By becoming increasingly aware of the
different landscape of consumer lifestyles, preferences and needs across the globe, the sun care industry is now targeting specific market segments: from products designed for different skin tones or for environmental conditions, or sports products designed for active lifestyles.
Growing consumer and industry interest in multi-functional products is driving demand for ingredients that can serve multiple functions in their formulations. The industry is developing ingredients able to play different roles in the formulation, from UV, light and pollution protection to anti-ageing, skin conditioning and benefiting agents.
What is next for sun care Several botanical active ingredients have been reported effective in maintaining or improving, by various mechanisms of action, the healthy status and appearance of the skin resulting valuable allies for skin care and body care. Indena has developed a wide range of ingredients for the skin care sector with substantiated and proven activity. All Indena active ingredients are standardised and clinically tested and are used in specific formulations designed not only for their active content, but also specifically realised to best meet the needs of the skin, originating both from different external environmental conditions and individual skin peculiarities. They have been specifically tested, both for their properties and for their suitability to be formulated in different varieties of sun care formulations, including after-sun soothing. Amongst them, a selection is granted Ecocert.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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