58 NATURALS PolyAquolTM Emulsifier
Cyclopentasiloxane PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
– 5% 3% PolyAquolTM 5% – 2%
Cetyl PEG/PPG - 10/1 Dimethicone PolyAquolTM
– 5% 3% 5% – 2% -OS2 11300 18450 18300 ✓Stable Unstable ✓Stable -OS2 Combination 11300 8150 19500 ✓ Stable Unstable ✓ Stable Lauryl PEG-9
Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
–
5% 3%
PolyAquolTM
5% –
2% -OS2
11300 13900 12000
✓Stable Unstable ✓Stable
Figure 7: Enhancement of silicone-emulsifier performance in the presence of the polyglycerol-based emulsifier. Emulsions were made with the polyglycerol-based emulsifier alone (5%), silicone-emulsifiers alone (5%) or in combinations (3% silicone-emulsifiers plus 2% polyglycerol-based emulsifier). Emulsions were made at 25°C. Stability was visually assessed (phase homogeneity or separation) after 1 month at 50°C. Viscosity was measured with a Brookfield apparatus, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm. Micrographs were taken with a Motic microscope BA3110E equipped with a LED light source and a Moticam 5 (5.0 MegaPixel) camera. Magnification 600X.
silicone-emulsifiers failed to produce stable emulsions. The addition of the polyglycerol-based emulsifier in combination with the silicone ones stabilised emulsions. Furthermore, it improved the micro-structure of the emulsion. In this way, the polyglycerol- based emulsifier could function as a co- emulsifier enhancing the emulsifying properties of silicone-emulsifiers.
Formulating with the polyglycerol- based emulsifier in the presence of colour pigments and UV filters There is an ever-increasing demand for natural and effective emulsions to deliver pigments to the skin. The ability of the polyglycerol-based emulsifier to disperse color pigments was verified against that of silicone-emulsifiers. In the conditions tested, emulsions made with silicone-
Oil Phase (tot. 30%) Emulsifier
Cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 Dimethicone
6% 6% 6% 6% ✓ Stable Unstable Unstable ✓ Stable 2% Lauryl PEG-9
Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
PolyAquolTM -OS2 Pigments Iron oxides & Titanium dioxides 26500 13000 / 15500 After 1 month at 50°C Optical microscopy analysis (600X) PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Arrowheads: agglomeration of iron oxides
Figure 8: Pigment dispersing capacity of the polyglycerol-based emulsifier in comparison with that of silicone-emulsifiers. Emulsions were made with either the polyglycerol-based emulsifier (6%) or silicone-emulsifiers alone (6%). Emulsions were made at 80°C. Stability was visually assessed (phase homogeneity or separation) after 1 month at 50°C. Viscosity was measured with a Brookfield apparatus, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm. Micrographs were taken with a Motic microscope BA3110E equipped with a LED light source and a Moticam 5 (5.0 MegaPixel) camera. Magnification 600X.
June 2018
Viscosity (cPs)
emulsifiers can be stable, or not, but all of them show the presence of pigment agglomerates in the range of 10 to 20µm (Fig 8). In addition of creating a stable emulsion (no separation after 1 month at 50°C), the polyglycerol-based emulsifier completely dispersed the pigments. The amphiphilic features of the polyglycerol- based emulsifier could contribute to the wetting of the pigments by filling in micro-
Optical microscopy analysis (600X)
Viscosity (cPs)
Stability (1 month at 50ºC) -OS2
Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
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