ANTI-AGEING 29 n Placebo n Active 3% 0 -5
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0 -5 *** *** *** Crow’s feet ** Nasolabial ** *** = p<0.001 ** = p<0.01
Figure 6: Bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis significantly reduces the number of wrinkles. After 84 days of application, the wrinkle counts in the crow’s feet and nasolabial areas decreased significantly above the placebo by up to 42 %.
using a 9-degree scale ranging from very fine skin texture to very coarse skin texture.
Results
Bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis have retinoic acid-like efficacy in vitro To achieve a retinoic acid-like efficacy, it is obvious that the key nuclear receptors, retinoic acid receptor (RAR) and retinoid X receptor (RXR) have to be activated to regulate their corresponding target genes. In our experiments the Maclura cochinchinensis bioflavonoids replaced bound radio ligand from the nuclear retinoic acid receptors RAR and RXR in a concentration-dependent manner. The active ingredient at 0.1 % is capable of binding the RAR by 25% and the RXR by 21%. Although this value is just touching the border of significance in this assay, a positive gene regulation of retinoic acid activated genes and as such, a retinoic- acid-like activity on the part of the active ingredient can be deduced from these results. The morphology of sebocytes treated with the active ingredient differed significantly from untreated or propanediol- treated cells (Fig 3) that show the typical roundish cell morphology of terminally differentiated sebocytes. Instead, we observed a flattened, fibroblast-like cell shape for the cells treated with the bioflavonoids (for comparison see Fibroblast Control in Fig 3). Sebocytes are generated in the germination layer of the sebaceous duct from non-differentiated precursor cells with a flattened cell shape. During maturation, they start a slow apoptotic process to become sebum- producing cells and finally burst to release the sebum into the sebaceous duct. Remarkably, the viability of sebocytes treated with 0.1% active ingredient is not distinguishable from untreated control cells
June 2018
Figure 7: Bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis significantly reduce wrinkle volume. After 84 days of application, the wrinkle volumes in the crow’s feet area decreased significantly by 16 %. Wilcoxon signed-rank test. Statistical values in black refer to comparison with baseline, while values in blue refer to comparison with the placebo.
(Fig 4). As such, there is no indication of any cytotoxicity. A possible explanation of the phenotype is a dedifferentiation process as described for sebocytes treated with epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF shuts down intracellular lipid synthesis almost completely and acts as a suppressor of sebum production.9
Sebocytes treated with
EGF have comparable cell morphology as can be seen by treatment with the active ingredient. We assume that the sebocytes are reverted into an earlier differentiation stage, similar to the sebocyte precursor cells that do not produce sebum. This finding suggests that the bioflavonoids act very similarly compared to retinoids, of which the main activity is also to shut down fatty acid synthesis in sebocytes.
Bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis are effective skin- rejuvenating actives The results of the in vivo study confirmed a retinoic-acid-like mechanism of action to support skin rejuvenation. In a double- blind, hemiface, placebo-controlled study with 21 female study participants, the skin firmness and elasticity were significantly improved after 84 days of application of 3% active ingredient (Fig 5). The firmness increased significantly by 43% compared to the initial condition, being also significant over the placebo. A similar result was obtained for elasticity. Elasticity was improved by 23%, also significant over baseline and the placebo. The efficacy of the active ingredient outperformed the placebo by 100%. The result indicates a positive impact on the dermal gene expression for collagens and elastin, the most important structural proteins increasing the skin’s firmness and flexibility. An increased amount of collagen and elastin should translate into reduced signs of ageing. Indeed, the wrinkle count as
analysed by PRIMOS decreased by 42% in the crow’s feet area and by 36 % in the nasolabial area at 3% active ingredient. Both improvements were significant over the placebo and the initial condition. In parallel, the wrinkle volumes in both areas decreased by 9 – 16% (Fig 7). Roughness in the periorbital region decreased significantly over the placebo by 6.7% (not shown).
An impressive instrumentally achieved
improvement in skin firmness, elasticity and wrinkle reduction parameters does not automatically result in a visible reduction of the signs of skin ageing, which is the desired task for a cosmetic formulation claiming anti-ageing efficacy. For this, the instrumentally evaluated parameters were confirmed by visual dermatological inspection of the wrinkles with corresponding wrinkle grading scales. The general skin appearance was assessed using an anti-ageing efficacy grading system evaluating skin evenness, roughness and suppleness. After 84 days, 3% of the active ingredient visibly decreased the wrinkle grading score by 20% in the crow’s feet area and 24.6 % of the nasolabial fold. As can be seen in Figure 8 and 9 the reduction of the wrinkles in the crow’s feet area and the improvement of the nasolabial fold are the dominant parameters where the active ingredient outperforms the placebo formulation over time. The improvement was significant over both the initial condition and the placebo. This is in accordance with the activity profile of a classic retinoid treatment.
In addition, application of 3% active
ingredient led to a significant improvement in the anti-ageing parameters of evenness, roughness and suppleness over initial condition after 28 and 84 days. Evenness reached significance over the placebo after 84 days (Fig 9).
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE ***
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n Placebo n Active 3%
** * * *** ** Crow’s feet Nasolabial
Mean + SEM; n=21;
Mean + SEM; n=21;
Relative to initial condition (%)
Relative to initial condition (%)
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