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2.4 SUSTAINABLE CONSUMPTION AND PRODUCTION


shown that the gender inequality which resides in social norms and institutions persists even after many years of economic development; in fact, old forms of gender discrimination may survive economic liberalization while new ones emerge (Self and Grabowski 2009; Jomo 2001).


Evidence suggests that two types of gender inequality are inherent in this economic growth strategy in many countries. First, a rising economic tide does not necessarily lift all boats. Both women and men may benefit from increased economic opportunities, but because women are universally paid less than men and their labor is more contingent they typically gain less than do their male counterparts. A recent analysis of women and men working in foreign export manufacturing zones in China, for example, found that women received smaller wage gains compared to men (Braunstein and Brenner 2007). Secondly, pre-existing gender inequality is often used intentionally to attract foreign investment and economic growth and, in some cases, might be a prerequisite for it (Seguino 2000). Especially


in middle-income emerging economies


that depend on export-oriented production, gender inequality is both an outcome of and a stimulus to growth. Employers tap lower-wage women to work in industrial production to keep the costs of goods low for export. For investors the ability to pay women workers lower wages is seen as an investment enhancement and profit multiplier: gender wage differentials signal opportunities for profitable investment (Seguino 2000; Ertürk and Çaatay 1995). The “labour-cost advantage” of hiring women is a product of government and corporate policies on employment and wages that make women’s labour cheap and simultaneously mobilize gender ideals and stereotypes that justify women’s concentration in unskilled, low-paying, high- turnover jobs (Enloe 2014; Berik 2000).


As multinational companies scour the globe for ever- cheaper production sites, the fact that women’s labour can usually be made cheaper than men’s means women typically predominate on the bottom tier of most global production systems. The exploitation of poor, non-unionized and ultimately ‘disposable’ women in developing countries proliferates through the use of sweatshop suppliers (Bettany et al. 2010). The “global assembly line” is, at least in the early stages of global integration, typically a feminized one: in 2012 there were an estimated 4500 export-oriented garment factories in Bangladesh employing 3 million people,


70% of whom were women (Enloe 2014); as Mexico’s large-scale export-production programme of maquilas got under way in the 1980s, women accounted for more than 75% of workers (Brown and Cunningham 2002); in 2015, women dominated Cambodia’s garment sector, making up an estimated 90-92% of the industry’s estimated 700,000 workers (HRW 2014). This feminization of global assembly production is typical but not universal: in India the majority of garment workers in industrial production are men.


The bottom tiers of global manufacturing production, which are often among the most feminized, are also among the most dangerous for workers. Garment workers, for example, suffer from musculoskeletal and respiratory problems, eye diseases and vision problems, skin diseases and stress as well as being at a high risk of accidents and injuries. Since most of these workers are from lower socio-economic classes, work-related impacts are compounded by poverty, lack of education, poor working conditions, excess working hours and poor diet (Saha et al. 2010). Catastrophic workplace accidents are not uncommon in emerging-economy industrial workplaces. Lax workplace oversight (often compounded by corruption, inadequate infrastructure and negligence) can result in large-scale disasters such as the Tazreen Fashions factory fire that killed more than 100 workers in Dhaka, Bangladesh, in 2012 and the collapse of an eight-story garment production centre in 2013, the Rana Plaza, also in Dhaka, that killed more than 1000 workers and injured even more. In 2015 the International Labour Organization reported that 80% of export-oriented ready-made garment factories in Bangladesh should have better fire and electrical safety standards, despite a government finding that most of these factories were safe (Quadir 2015).


The social costs, particularly gender inequities, of


garment production are paralleled by environmental damage which, in turn, exacerbates social impacts. Bangladesh’s garment and textile industries have contributed heavily to what experts describe as a water pollution disaster, especially in the large industrial areas of Dhaka: many rice paddies are now inundated with toxic wastewater; fish stocks are dying; and rivers are filled with textile dyes due to routine dumping of wastewater from textile mills and their associated factories (Yardley 2013). In China, which produces an estimated 65% of the world’s clothing, the textile and garment industry is one of the country’s biggest water polluters, using more water than almost any other


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