WAXES


Germany has neared its peak, although further growth is estimated, but the time has now come for this market to evolve further. An important spin-off of this market has now established itself, vegan cosmetics are strongly on the rise. Like natural cosmetics, vegan


cosmetics are not regulated either. There are some certifying bodies, mainly originating from the food industry, which now seem to be at least partly shifting their focus to the cosmetic industry, but this phenomenon looks to be still in the early stages of development. This means that defining what is and what is not vegan, is also still very much unclear. The use of animal derived ingredients is obviously something which is considered to be critical at least, but should vegan cosmetics, for instance, be all natural? On this topic, the opinions differ. For some companies in Germany, which are already actively producing vegan cosmetics, ingredients, which would not be considered natural by certifying bodies like Ecocert, like silicones or ethoxylated emulsifiers, are not considered to be non- vegan and are actively used in their vegan formulations. Even some animal derived ingredients, which have shown to have strong benefits for cosmetic formulations, like bees wax, honey and milk proteins are seen as relatively uncritical.


Meeting expectations An age-old, but seemingly often forgotten question the cosmetic industry needs to ask, though, is what would the consumer expect from my product if I make claim X on its packaging? If claim X would be ‘anti-wrinkle’ the consumer would no doubt expect the cosmetic product to have anti-wrinkle activity. If claim X is ‘vegan’ the consumer, especially the vegan consumer, would expect the cosmetic product to be fully vegan. But what would the vegan consumer expect to be vegan? This is where we, as the cosmetic industry, need to understand what is meant by having a vegan lifestyle. Vegans, on average, are more inclined to have a pro-environmental lifestyle and consider topics like sustainability to be more important than the average consumer. Natural and, above all, sustainable cosmetics, therefore, seem to have to be an important aspect of vegan cosmetics. In this context, many companies already, obviously, aim their vegan cosmetics to be natural and sustainable and for the formulations not to contain any animal derived raw materials.


Altogether, formulating vegan


cosmetics poses the cosmetic scientists an even greater challenge than when


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Untreated VegoJelly 7036 Plus Figure 1: TEWL study of skin moisture content.


formulating natural cosmetics. Animal- derived, but sustainable ingredients, for instance, are still widely used in the cosmetic industry because of their great advantages they supply cosmetic formulators with. Beeswax is one such example of a cosmetic raw material used in high amounts in the cosmetic industry, including natural and certified natural formulations, because of its unique properties it can supply to cosmetic formulations. It would be advisable to not use beeswax in vegan formulations, though. Petrolatum is another example.


It is obviously not acceptable to use it in natural formulations, but, depending on what the interpretation of ‘what is vegan’ is, might possibly be used in vegan formulations. Referring to the above statement that vegans tend to have a more pro-environmental lifestyle than the average consumer, it is not advisable to use mineral oil-based products.


Vegan solution KahlWax has a convincing answer for many different formulation types and applications, including vegan cosmetic products. A unique blend of exotic berry wax (fruit peel wax from Asia) with high quality castor oil offers multifunctional activity. Initially designed as a natural petrolatum alternative VegoJelly 7036PLUS (INCI: Ricinus Communis S eed Oil, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera/ Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol) has proven its value as functional problem solver in various formulations. The used berry wax is harvested from


the fruits of the Rhus verniciflua tree, which is native to East Asia. The wax is extracted by boiling the skin of the dried berries. Berry wax is a cream white coloured wax with a high chemical


content of triglycerol ester of C16/18 fatty acid. Berry wax feels very silky and soft compared to a classic emollient and starts melting at temperatures <30°C. In addition, berry wax produces very smooth textures and improves significantly the sensory characteristics of cosmetic formulations. VegoJelly 7036PLUS is an opaque, thixotropic oleogel with a melting range of 42°C to 48°C. Used as a basic ingredient (use level >10%) it forms oleogels with an enormous oil binding capacity such as hair pomades, lip balms, body butters, or colour cosmetic formulas like lip gloss, cream blush, and mascara. As a problem solver it can help in case a formulation suffers from oil bleeding. Just by adding 5% this issue is usually sorted out. Oleogels based on VegoJelly are soft and therefore the hardness/ viscosity is decreased rather than raised. This enhances the pay-off significantly which is an ideal property improving stick formulas for lips, cheeks or as concealer. VegoJelly is a very polar blend and


works perfectly in formulations with effect pigments, dyes, and UV-filters. In a TEWL study the influence of VegoJelly on skin’s moisture content was measured (see Fig. 1). Compared to petrolatum as a positive


control known to be entirely occlusive, VegoJelly was able to reduce the loss of moisture. VegoJelly forms a protective shield on the skin keeping things on the side they belong to. But it still lets the skin breathe, therefore it works perfectly in products for adults, babies and kids such as cold protection balms, face masks, body lotions, and foot treatments. It is not designed for diaper rash products in which the complete occlusion as skin protection against moisture is necessary. VegoJelly holds an Ecocert for natural


cosmetics and is certified kosher (halal certification is in progress).


PC September 2015 PERSONAL CARE 85 Petrolatum


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