ESSENTIAL OILS
lemon-scented myrtle or lemon ironwood. This water-soluble version offers a standardised natural active agent in a convenient, ready-to-use form to facilitate formulation work while optimising activity and safety. The Australian Myrtle Oil WS is easy-to-use and offers broad spectrum antimicrobial activity and a relaxing and uplifting citrus aroma. It can be used in a wide range of applications in personal care products aimed at skin and scalp treatment.
Australian myrtle leaves contain the highest level of natural citral isomers of any plants and this makes it a powerful antibacterial, antiseptic and antifungal. The leaves are rich source of calcium, magnesium and zinc. In the form of aromatherapy, myrtle essential oil is used to favour relaxation enhance concentration and is emotionally uplifting. Crodarom’s Boswellia ingredient is made from Boswellia serrata which is found in India, Northern Africa, and the Middle East. ‘Salai guggal’, the gummy exudate has been traditionally used in Ayurvedic medicine as an anti-arthritic and topical anti-inflammatory active. Strips of bark are peeled away, yielding a gummy oleo-resin which contains essential oils, terpenoids, and gum. One of the main active constituents are boswellic acids. They inhibit two pro-inflammatory enzymes: the 5-lipoxygenase which generates inflammatory leukotrienes causing formation of superoxide radicals, redness, itching and flakiness. The other inflammatory enzyme is the human leukocyte elastase (HLE) which in turn triggers the inflammatory process and causes damage to connective tissue which leads to less firm and elastic skin. The dual inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase and HLE is unique to boswellic acids. Cosmetic applications include: stressed
erythema and as a skin and mucosa healer. In cosmetics, it is added to products for hair lightening, sun protection gels, products for sensitive, fatigued or irritable skin, anti-congestion tonics and as an essence for perfumes and soaps.
Solubilisers Cremer Care’s Softigen 767 is a surface active, water soluble clear liquid which serves as a refatting and solubilising agent in cosmetic formulations. Softigen 767 is the ethoxylation product of medium chain partial glycerides whose fatty acids are derived from coconut and palm kernel oil. It is a viscous (approximately 160 mPa·s), slightly yellow liquid with a neutral odour. The density is about 1.08 g/cm3
at 20˚C. Sandalwood.
and irritated skin care, sun and after-sun care, depilatory after-peeling and cleansing products, hair care to support healthy non- itchy scalp free of dandruff, and ‘Bo-detox’ concepts to support treatment of mimic wrinkles. The maximum recommended level of use is 10%. Provital’s Chamomile-Eco is a standardised extract obtained in a medium of glycerin/water (50:50) from the flowers of Matricaria chamomilla L., proceeding from organic crop. Flavonoids, coumarins, essential oils and polysaccharides are characteristic compounds in the chemical composition of chamomile. It contains a minimum 50 ppm of apigenin-7-glucoside. Chamomile-Eco is an Ecocert certified, anti-irritation product used for skin soothing. It is also a skin protector and free radical scavenger.
Chamomile and chamomile extracts are intended for skin, membranes and mucosa affections, eye, ear or throat inflammation and for runny nose. It is also used in
Massage oils and spa products can be ideal for essential oils. 22 PERSONAL CARE September 2015
Softigen 767 is free of preservatives, solvents and other additives. Because of special purification processes the amount of monomere residues is extremely low. With a calculated HLB value of approximately 19, Softigen 767 is able to solubilise fragrances, essential oils and volatile crystalline substances. In numerous formulations, especially of those containing surfactants the ingredient decreases viscosity. Therefore higher amounts of detergents can be used in liquid preparations. Softigen 767 is stable and can therefore be stored easily. During processing in aqueous systems, no hydrolysis occurs, even after heating. Softigen 767 acts as an emollient with good skin toleration. Even on eczematous skin its skin toleration is very high. The ingredient 767 imparts a long-lasting pleasant skin-feel, even in rinse-off products because it becomes water- insoluble at high dilutions. Because of its chemical, physical and physiological properties it is recommended as a refatting agent in cosmetic preparations. Softigen 767 improves the pliancy of the skin preserving its lipid content, especially after cleansing, which causes defatting of the skin. In aqueous alcoholic formulations, such as after-shaves Softigen 767 is able to prevent skin contraction. PEL-ALC OD-20 from Elé Corporation is a nonionic surfactant and emulsifier with an HLB of approximately 14. It is produced by the ethoxylation of branched fatty alcohol resulting in a soft white paste. It is used to solubilise fragrances, essential oils, and other hydrophobic compounds in aqueous systems. PEL-ALC OD-20 also functions as a co-emulsifier for many systems. In hair care products it finds use in hair styling mousses and gels. Other applications include volumising and conditioning gels, pomades and waxes. In skin care products, it finds application in foundations, eye makeup remover, spray deodorants, and deodorant sticks.
PC
KarlM
www.commons.wikimedia.org CC BY-SA 3.0
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
